I’m adding three gauges to my 84, with the 302. Need some help on locations on the motor to mount the sensors. Putting in a coolant, oil pressure, and voltage.
I have the voltage hooked up. But cannot figure out the oil or temp, without loosing the dash gauges. I’m know a lot of you have already done this. So in your opinion what is the best location?
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B, Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435 Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf. 08/1983, in Norfolk DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges 1990 Goldwing 1500 1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic 2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home 2017 Chevrolet Traverse Home town Viola Tennessee |
Administrator
|
On the voltage, and I know you already have it hooked up, there are two schools of thought. Mine is that I want to know what the voltage of the battery is, not what voltage I have in the cab. And there's a big difference. The cab voltage will vary significantly depending on what you have turned on, like the A/C or lights. That's because Ford used fairly small wires to bring the power to the cab, so there's voltage drop when things are on. Anyway, just my thoughts.
On the oil pressure, that's pretty easy. The factory sending unit should be down by the fuel pump and you can put a tee in to run both the factory unit as well as the aftermarket one. But the water temp is a different story as you shouldn't use a tee. The sending units need to be in the stream of coolant to get an accurate reading, and if you use a tee they are well out of the stream. But, some times you have options. Some engines have a second port on the thermostat housing. Yes, that's after the thermostat so you won't see the true engine temp until after the thermostat opens, but once it opens the two gauges should be seeing the same temperature of coolant.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
I apologize for tapping in here but I have a question along similar lines. My truck is an LX model with no factory tachometer and I wish to add a factory tach. Do I have the available wiring in my truck to make this plug and play?
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
Administrator
|
Yes! You will have to replace the printed circuit film behind your gauges with one from the tachometer doner truck.
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Maybe. First, tachs weren't installed as part of a trim line like XL or XLT. They were an option that could be had on any trim line. But there were two different clusters from 1980 - 85: with gauges and without gauges. Those w/o gauges can't have the tach added very easily.
Those with gauges have one of two printed circuits: with tach & w/o tach. If yours has the holes in it for the tach then all you need is the tach. If not, then you need the tach and the proper printed circuit. We have a page on tachs (Documentation/Electrical/Tachometers) but it doesn't really cover this. So I need to upgrade it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
I thought that at some point, "idiot" lights were no longer offered. With his truck being a 1986, I "assumed" the truck would have had instruments.
|
Administrator
|
You are right, David! I missed that his is an '86.
In '86 Ford did away with the idiot lights and all trucks came with gauges. As for the printed circuits, as the snippet below shows there were two different ones. And while the catalog clearly shows that -C was for trucks w/o a tach, I've seen many clusters that had that printed circuit but didn't have a tach. My guess is that at some point Ford realized that it made no sense to have two different printed circuits when they probably cost exactly the same, and dropped the -C. But I can't prove that. (Note the catalog also shows that the -A is for 1981 through 1986 trucks w/o gauges, but there weren't any such trucks in '86.)
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
So to be clear, I "may" have the -B in my truck even though it does not have a tach?
Last thing.... in regards to the instrument cluster as a whole, what other Ford vehicles and years might I find a replacement instrument cluster for my truck. I believe the Bronco is of the same, perhaps the same year/years van? Thanks fellas!
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Thanks for the information Gary, I believe I do have a port behind the thermostat . I agree with the voltage at the battery is what I wanted. That’s where I picked it up..
I also would like a tachometer but have not been able to find one, yet. I will keep looking.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B, Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435 Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf. 08/1983, in Norfolk DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges 1990 Goldwing 1500 1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic 2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home 2017 Chevrolet Traverse Home town Viola Tennessee |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by Machspeed
Yes, you may have the right printed circuit. And yes the Broncos are the same. But no other vehicles were from what I know.
And 1980 is slightly different in that the turn signal and other lights were in different spots. But that can be changed if you find an '80 printed circuit with tach.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by 1986F150Six
Thanks Dave, I was just there....lol! Gonna try and soucre out of local salvage yard before I go on line though.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
F600 & F800? |
Administrator
|
Yes, I think you may be correct. However, while we know the tach will work, will the rest of the cluster? Are the lights above the same? I don't know that I've heard one way or another. Do you know?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
When I pull the cluster, I'll let you know what I find. Thanks again!
David, sorry if I trashed your thread.
John
"Blackie" - 1986 F150 4x4 - Mildly warmed over 351W HO - Original owner |
For the temp gauge you can also get a fitting that goes in the radiator hose to add the sender to.
It is made just for this, maybe Summit or Speedway Motors. Only thing I think could be an issue is if electric gauge grounding the sender. Depending on what hose you use could have the same issues as if it was in the stat housing Dave ----
Dave G.
81 F100 flare side 300 six / AA OD / NP435 / 2.75 gear http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1980-Ford-F100?page=1 81 F100 style side 300 six/SROD parts truck -RIP http://cars.grantskingdom1.com/index.php/1981-Ford-F100 |
I teed my aftermarket coolant temp gauge. Seems to work good.
Dane
1986 F250HD SC XLT Lariat 4x4 460 C6-Sold 1992 Bronco XLT 4x4 351W E4OD 1998 GMC Sierra SLE K1500 350 4L60E Arizona |
Got it all set up yesterday, oil pressure, I pulled the oil pressure sender and installed a T. This involved pulling the power steering pump off to get to the sender.
The temperature gauge, was installed on top of the thermostat housing. There was a sensor there with the top broken off, just a matter of replacing it. With the voltage gauge I ran a wire to the battery side of the starter relay. Once everything was set up I decided to recheck the voltage regulator for the dash gauges. I had installed a DE-SWADJ3, a couple of years ago. It was only putting out 4.8 volts, it got reset to 5.4. The gauges read better. Still needing to do something about the fuel tank float, a full tank of gas only reads 1/2 tank of gas. So I have been using mileage as the refuel point. Thinking I will pull the bed off so it will be much easier to pull the float and adjust.
David,
1984 F150 LX, 4x4 117 wheel base, Engine Code "F" = 302, 5.0 2/B, Transmission code "A" = 4sp manual New Process model 435 Axle code "19" = 3.55 (ford 8.8) manf. 08/1983, in Norfolk DSO code "21" AtlantaFactory Air Conditioner, Dash with Gauges 1990 Goldwing 1500 1986 F150 XLT, short bed, 5.0 automatic 2004 F53 Fleetwood Terra motor home 2017 Chevrolet Traverse Home town Viola Tennessee |
Administrator
|
Glad you got it going.
On the temp gauge, I've often wondered if having one sender in the block and one after the thermostat would let you watch the thermostat open. It sounds like you put the aftermarket sender in the thermostat housing, which is the way I'd suggest doing it as the factory gauge is very slow to react. But the aftermarket one is probably fast enough that you can see the change as the gauge opens. I'd be curious to know if that's the case. As for the volt meter, do you have it tied in all the time? I'd be worried that it would pull the battery down when the engine isn't running. Have you checked the current draw of it? And pulling the bed makes getting to the sender a lot easier. But that in and of itself isn't always easy as the bolts don't like to come out. However, if you can get them out that would be the way to do it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Edit this page |