A new tool

[Gary Lewis]

Yup, 4" is too small.  

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

The rods never got rained on or anything.
Many of their holder ends are not rusty.

Gary,
I have a case tumbler, bit I don't want to cut the rods into 4" pieces

The rods do not need to get "rained on" or wet to be no good. It is the moister in the air that the rods pull the water from.
That is why once the tin is opened they should go into a air tight container or be used fast before they pull the moister in.

Some from the middle of the pack to the bottom "might" be ok to use as the moister may not have gotten to them other than the ends where the wire hooks to.
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, I understand how it works.
I don't know if it is reversible.

Most weldors I know have a dry box or 'oven'

[Gary Lewis]

In my very limited experience once the flux gets "wet" it gets crumbly.  But if it hasn't gotten to that stage then maybe it can be dried out in an oven.  I don't know.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It's not crumbly at all.
In fact it is very difficult to get it started coming off.

After work I think I should stop by HF and get some TIG rod.

[Gary Lewis]

If it isn't crumbly then it may be fine.  Check with a welder?

Is TIG rod expensive?  Good metal.  Probably better than coat hanger, which is what I used to use.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Even coat hangers have gone to **** now.

I don't have the power to run a proper stick welder, so they should go to someone who does.

I don't need anything with source certs.
As long as it's clean and consistent I will be happy.

[85lebaront2]

I would say this qualifies as a new tool. My awesome wife got me this for Christmas, a Flashforge 3D printer. Now maybe I can make the NLA trim clips for the LeBaron.

The printer with it's first project, came pre loaded on a USB drive.


The first project, a miniature cup?

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - That is cool!  I've been wanting to get into 3D printing for some time, but just never have.  However, I'll watch how it works for you and maybe jump in.  

[85lebaront2]

At Gary's request, some close up pictures of the "mouse cup".

Bottom view.


Side view.


Inside view.


Base side = 40mm.


Height = 50mm.


OD = 35mm.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Bill.  It looks to be pretty smooth on the sides, both inside and out.  But the very bottom has more texture.  How was it printed - right side up?  Or was the bottom printed last?  I ask because Ron sent me an HP file of 3D printing tips and it suggested printing lettering and other things you want smooth on the bottom, which would mean printing the fog lamp bezel upside down.  So I wondered how yours was printed.

[85lebaront2]

It printed from the bottom up. BTW, here is what I need to make:

[Gary Lewis]

Interesting that there was a pattern on the bottom.  Guess I don't understand.

Anyway, on the part, can you also post pics from the side and the bottom.  At first blush it looks to have a constant width, a hook on the bottom, and be Z-shaped.  Is the bottom end square to the sides?

So, here are some measurements that would get me started - when I can start:

Width
Length
Thickness
Outer diameter of the hook at the bottom
ID of the hook at the bottom
Distance from the bottom to the start of the Z
Length of the Z
Height of the offset caused by the Z
Depth of the inset at the top
Width of the inset at the top, which gives the width of the two pins that stick out
Width between the ends of the "whiskers" at the top
Diameter of the "whiskers"
Width of the little inset on the bottom
Is that some kind of a tab sticking into the little inset on the bottom?

Yes, we still need to work out the dimensions on the retaining slots, but we can do that after we get the overall shape established.

[85lebaront2]

Suppose I just mail you one of the good ones? That way you will have the actual piece for measurements. I can also send you a copy of the software it uses so you can see what format's it accepts.

[Gary Lewis]

Sounds like a plan.  I can measure it and send it back w/the hardware, which is already powder-coated, and your EVTM.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Wow, what a cool gift!  


Is that clip made of nylon?

I'm not sure if your Finder prints in anything but PLA without hacking. (at least the flashforge page suggests PLA only)
You might look into the stiffness/toughness required of the part.

I also think the 'cup' is 35mm OD, as it doesn't seem to overhang the 40mm square base in the photos.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Cold stage (or bed) causes the plastic to freeze right away, where printing on top of a hot extrusion allows for better adhesion and flow.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job.  Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed.  Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth?  That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

[85lebaront2]

Jim, you are correct on the OD of the cup, I went back and looked at the picture again and corrected it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary Lewis wrote

Jim - I wondered about the ability of PLA to do that job.  Do some printers allow the use of nylon?

And, that makes sense about smoothness on the bed.  Perhaps the HP printer that Ron's sending the bezel to has a really hot bed that makes the first layer quite smooth?  That would be handy for the top of the bead since it will be painted silver and texture will show.

Different plastics have different melting points.
What I understand is that PLA prints at around 190C,  ABS at ~220C,  and 'Nylon' at higher temps than that.

So it all depends on how hot the extruder is (or can get)

A heated stage is almost a requirement for some plastics because the thermal expansion -or contraction actually- will cause them to pull right off the bed due to distortion.