85 2wd C&C Dump 4x4 Conversion

[FuzzFace2]

bp17oang wrote

I go the button to upload the photo, click the photo, then check center and big size. Then I add in the code to turn it 90° since my photos have always loaded turned for some reason.

Then I enter in about three blank lines in the post above and below the photo, as Jim mentioned doing.

Not sure. I'm barely a hillbilly mechanic let alone an IT specialist so I'm sure it's something I'm doing.

What is this 90* code you speak of
Dave ----

[bp17oang]

Under the Bullnose Forum Tab, there is a link for FAQs.  At the very bottom of that page it is explained how to rotate pictures (if necessary).  For whatever reason, when I load photos from my phone, they load turned 90 degrees.  So, I add this verbiage to the code to get it to rotate back to right side up.

style="transform:rotate(90deg);

I have noticed though on the email notification I receive for my posts the photo is still turned, but on the page on the forum it appears right side up.

[bp17oang]

It's not a big deal Gary. Just have to adapt a little bit.  No worries!

[Gary Lewis]

Let me try to explain.

In the olden days it was obvious which way up was on cameras and people took their pictures right-side-up.  So forum software, which was written at about that time, didn't have to worry about that.

Then along came smart-phones and people took pictures any which way.  That caused problems right out of the bag so the manufactures started encoding the orientation of the phone/camera in the picture file. Recently-written software accounts for that and rotates the picture so the sky is up.  But most forum software is stuck in the olden days and doesn't read the orientation code in the picture.

So I think you have three options:

1. Take the pictures with the camera right-side-up, which I believe is with the volume buttons down on an iPhone.

2. Use photo editing software and rotate the pic before you upload it on the forum.

3. Embed some rotation code (HTML) in the code the forum generates when it uploads the pic.

I use Option 2 'cause I shoot my pics in a high-res mode and that creates files too large to upload to this forum.  But in many cases I want my pics to be the full width of the screen, so can't use the Big option on uploading.  Given that I edit in Photoshop on the PC or Photoshop Express on the iPhone and make the pics ~500kb in size and with the sky up.

As for the email still showing them rotated when you use the HTML code to rotate them, the email software doesn't run the HTML code.

[bp17oang]

Gary, I will not allow you to downplay your IT knowledge on my post anymore!

That explanation makes sense and is very clear to even me!

BP

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I'm retired from a career in IT.  But I am an excellent example of the Peter Principle: the principle that members of a hierarchy are promoted until they reach the level at which they are no longer competent.  

[bp17oang]

Haha. Fair enough! Perhaps I was imparting my own position as solely being a "user" of technology with no knowledge whatsoever of how it actually works towards you.

And for that, considering your profession, I apologize!

[FuzzFace2]

Thanks for the code as I did not know there was such a thing.

All this picture thing was not an issue till my picture hosting site stopped using some software(forgot what it is now Java maybe?) because of security issues.
Thing is there is no replacement for it so I am kind of hosed right now.

Before I posted any pictures to my site I could rotate them before I hit "save" and all was good.
Then I could just post then here and they were right side up.

The other thing I find strange is I switched browsers, out dated IE to Chrome, When I view my site pictures some are turned sideways and blurry and dont know why?
I dont think I can get into my site and flip them because of the soft wear thing
I will figure it someday when I get that bug up you know where

Thanks again for the code
Dave ----

[bp17oang]

One step closer to getting the lil bulldog road worthy...

After a valiant fight put up by the brake system, I have finally got that sorted out (after replacing the shoes/hardware, calipers, and surprise surprise every brake line).

After day 5 of the battle I gave in and took the booster/master off my 250... And we have brakes! Better brakes than my 06 truthfully.

[bp17oang]

Working on the steering...

Currently has a slight toe out. Problem I'm running into is that tie rod threaded ends are bottomed out in the adjustment sleeve.

Am I correct in thinking I need to "tighten" that sleeve to correct the toe out, ie bringing the toe in?

Anyone have any ideas on what I can do considering I don't have any more adjustment?

[FuzzFace2]

So this is a 4x2 converted to 4x4 what steering parts were used?
It could be you are using the 4x2 parts or a mix of them on this project when you need to use the 4x4 parts.
Dave ----

[bp17oang]

Yes it was a two-wheel drive to four-wheel drive conversion

However I retained the tie rod ends that are connected to the steering knuckles that were on the Dana 60 when I got it.

I installed the pitman arm off of my four-wheel drive truck, and I purchased new the tie rod end that connects to the drag link and the pitman arm. Those two pieces were for a four-wheel drive Dana 60 application.

Even if the new pieces I installed are wrong which I don't think they are those parts has nothing to do with the toe. The only place to toe can be adjusted is that the tie rod end that connects the two wheels

Edit: I think my solution is to take the tie rod end off and cut some of the threads off

[FuzzFace2]

Well if the parts were from the truck the 60 came from then it had to be toed out also.

Was the truck crashed that the 60 came from?
If so how badly was it crashed and thinking pretty good if it was totaled.

I ask because the knuckles could have gotten bent where the tie rods bolt on making it toe out and not be able to get it back in.
I had this happen once on a Toyota LC I use to race off road. I dont remember now if it was jumped or rolled but the toe also was out and could not adjust it as there was no more adjustment left.
Because it was a race only truck we cut a chunk out of the center link and welded it back together with a pipe sleeve and was fine after that.
Dave ----

[bp17oang]

That's definitely a thought.

I have little info on the truck it came out of. I don't think it was wrecked bc the guy I got it from said he got from a guy that bought the truck just for the flatbed. But could it have been wrecked, I suppose.

I still have some threads outside the adjustment sleeve, so if I cut a half inch off the end of the tie rod I think that will get me close enough for what I'm doing. It's only toed out about 1/4 inch but I'd rather it have a 1/4 toe in.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think this makes sense Dave.
Are you suggesting the front axle is bent?

An accident in the donor might bend the frame but that axle was installed on the 2WD truck.

Cutting down the threaded ends seems the most expedient solution, as long as there are plenty more threads for the adjuster sleeves to engage.

[bp17oang]

Considering everything fell right into place and lined up perfectly during the installation of the axle, I would also be extremely surprised if anything is tweaked on that axle.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't think anything is wrong.
I was just wondering where Dave's head was going with the suggestion.

[FuzzFace2]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

I don't think this makes sense Dave.
Are you suggesting the front axle is bent?

An accident in the donor might bend the frame but that axle was installed on the 2WD truck.

Cutting down the threaded ends seems the most expedient solution, as long as there are plenty more threads for the adjuster sleeves to engage.

No not the axle housing but the part the tie rods bolt to.
I dont know how the axle is set up if they bolt on or part of the spindle / knuckle assy. but that part could be bent and cause the issue he has.

Something has to be bent to cause this.
Dave ----

[bp17oang]

Hey guys,

Anyone attempt, or have thoughts on, plumbing the transmission cooler in the radiator up as an oil cooler?

It has oil filter adapter hookups.

It maintains pretty decent oil pressure (70 psi at startup) but like most it does drop when it's hot (around 20). Just wondered if doing this might help or give her a little extended life before she needs bearings.

[kramttocs]

My 460/C6 has both the factory aux tranny cooler (includes routing through the radiator) as well as the factory aux oil cooler.
I mention that only to say that the aux oil cooler lines are a lot bigger than the tranny lines so not sure how that would impact it.