85 2wd C&C Dump 4x4 Conversion

[bp17oang]

I'm not going to get too nervous about the length yet until I get my ride height situated.

Regardless I will need that other piece

[kramttocs]

Not sure if it will help any but I have the shafts from my 80 c&c on the back of the truck right now (along with a 96 c&c set). I am not sure those parts will have any numbers on them though.

So that photo is of the rear one you have (or will be used as your rear one)? What did it come out of?

[bp17oang]

Is it a two-piece or one piece? If it's a one piece I wouldn't mind seeing some pictures of the configuration. I'm really confused with what I've received to be honest

[kramttocs]

To me that looks like an auto trans slip yoke.

So out of a 2wd it would be a two piece. Front shorter piece going through the carrier bearing and terminating with a male splined shaft. Then the rear piece would have a female piece that looks similar to yours but would have a collar at the end.
At least that's what all my 2wd (both auto and manual) C&C trucks have.

Now with 4wd - our 94 7.3, 5spd C&C is a one piece. Honestly I thought it was 2 piece but just now called my dad and he checked. Our 96 7.3, 5spd, 4wd C&C is also at the farm with him and I would now assume it's a 1 piece as well but he wasn't near it to look.

I am going back with a 1 piece on my 80 but it won't really help you out as the config will be different.
Wish I was near the 94/96 since like you said, that would help you out more. I was thinking I could get you some info with the 2 piece ones but that was before I learned about the 94 1 piece.

The 1 piece does simplify the build and might be worth checking with your local driveshaft shop on having one built. I could share what I paid for mine but it was a bit of a special case (aka ordeal) and won't be a good comparison.

[bp17oang]

I just looked at the paperwork. Anyone need a rear driveshaft for an automatic?

Yeah I'm done with ordering used parts like that. I'll just take the 15 (sarcasm) driveshafts to the shop and see if he can build something out of what I've got. Might be cheaper to start over.

I would think I could take that slip yoke off the axle, flip it around and connect that to my transfer case, then cut the weld yoke off the tube and have a splined shaft welded to it.

[bp17oang]

Do you happen to know the wheelbases on the CCs?

I assume those have a bw 1356... Do those have fixed yokes (like my 45) or the flange style on the rear output?

[kramttocs]

Wheelbase is 137.
I assume 1356 as well but unable to confirm. Will have to take a look the next time I am at my parents.

[bp17oang]

Don't go out of your way... not sure why in my head I have to try to figure out what I got originally came from.  It has my mind boggled as to how I got what I got when I plugged in my application exactly into Hollander and it spit out the location I ordered the shaft from.  Then called them and went through my application once again. Yep, we have your shaft right here on the shelf.

The moral of the story is, it ain't gonna work (as it's currently assembled), so I need to move on.

[bp17oang]

Actually was able to locate a front driveshaft somewhat locally... They also have a rear shaft.  

However, it has the flanged end on it. My transfer case has the fixed yolk output. I thought I might be able to separate the flange mounting plate from the shaft and just hook up the u-joint to the yoke on the my transfer case.  But, I think it might end up being a touch too short if I do that.

It measures 56 1/4" u-joint to u-joint (laying on the ground. It is difficult to know how much the slip yoke is collapsed... I am dealing with a junkyard mind you).  My measurements from yoke to yoke (transfer case to axle) is closer to 62".  In other words, I don't think the slip yoke, even fully extended, would compensate for the approximate 6" difference.  If I used the flange that would increase the length of the shaft by about 2".  That's getting closer to seeming feasible...  

Question 1) Does anyone know if there was a flange style rear output ever used for a 1345?  

Question 2) 1356s had flanged outputs, correct?  

Question 3) Would a 1356 flanged output interchange?  

Question 4) if it's possible to put a flange output on it, would that shorten the length of the shaft I need (ie. is the output assembly for a flange style "longer" than a fixed yoke?

Thanks for everyone's help thoughts!  

[bp17oang]

Pic for reference as to what I'm talking about on the shaft

[ArdWrknTrk]

All Bronco's had a fixed output and a double cardan rear shaft.
Some had a yoke, and some had a plate.

My 1356 has a slip yoke, and I know they're available that way.

1345 output and 1356 output ahafts won't interchange.
Speedo drives are completely different.


I would think the flange rear output from a 350 Truck will fit though it might not be any longer.

[bp17oang]

Upon further digging, I am told that shaft came out of a truck with a BW4407 transfer case... Not a 1356 as I had assumed

[bp17oang]

Well it seems like the parts that I need for this assembly are getting rarer and rarer...

Silly me for thinking the output yoke on the front would work with the double cardan. It doesn't.

Anybody have any ideas on where I could check for an output yoke for a bw1345 that's for a double cardan? I have been told that 1356 output yokes will not work.

[Gary Lewis]

I can’t look right now, but somewhere in Big Blue’s Transformation thread I posted where I got my double-cardan front yoke for my 1345. Go search that thread.

I’ll check later to see if you’ve found it.

[bp17oang]

Thanks Gary.  Brad at "Drive Train" ring a bell? Lots of discussion on that but it looks like he found one for you???

[bp17oang]

Must've been the place... I called and he thought he had one. Of course, didn't, but thinks they can make me one... At this point, I'd like a guarantee

[Gary Lewis]

Actually, I think it was Denny’s Drive Shafts. Don’t know for sure though as I haven’t found mention of that order. Still looking...

[bp17oang]

Well not having much luck...

Does anyone have any first-hand knowledge of the interchangeability of front output yokes between new process and borg and warner? How about b&w 4407s and 1345/56s?

If I can't get this sorted out I guess I will just have to convert to a flange style. I even resorted to calling around trying to find an entire transfer case that already had the correct yoke on it. At least that's not impossible to find if I were willing to drive about 3 days to get one

Wouldn't be the first worthless driveshaft I've ended up with in the course of this ordeal!  

[Gary Lewis]

Bill - I don't have any experience swapping from one brand or model of t-case to another.  Sorry.

But did you call Denny's Driveline?

[bp17oang]

Hey Gary-  Yes, I called Denny's and virtually every driveline shop in North America (probably not even close but it feels like it).

Two facilities have indicated (yesterday) they have something that should work. One outfit being Driveline and Gear Service in Nevada and the other being Tom Wood's Custom Driveshafts in Utah (for reference if anyone needs it later).

To make a long story short, it appears that the yoke that will work on this particular application is actually listed as a NP yoke. Obviously, originally, all of these yokes were made by Spicer, which makes sense if you think about it that NP and B&W would design transfer cases that all used readily available yokes at the time.  I have taken every conceivable measurement I can from my old yoke and the double cardan mount and it seems like it will work. Shawn at Tom's even took the yoke and slid it onto a core 1345 they had laying around.  Said it fits perfectly.  The only slight difference that may exist, as far as I can tell without getting my hands on one quite yet, is the ground seal surface might be slighter "bigger" on the NP yoke, but it's apparently a rather negligible difference because Shawn said it slid into the seal on the 1345. If that happens to be a problem for me, I will simply take the yoke to my uncle that has a small machine shop and have him grind off the thousdanth or so difference off it.

It seems like a lot of the confusion out there in the driveline world is either not knowing, or accepting that at least some NP yokes will work on B&Ws and vice versa.  Had I called every place I called and asked for a NP yoke for this application, I would have likely been done several weeks ago. But we live and learn.  

And honestly, I am not going to count my chickens until I have a yoke connected to my transfer case with a double cardan driveshaft hooked to it...

Thanks everyone!