84 F-150 300i6 3 speed OD 2.47 rears 2WD

[Gary Lewis]

Brandon/Bruno2 is the one that told me about reading of problems at RedHead.  So I really don't know for sure that there is a problem, or that they haven't corrected it if there is one.

In reality, there are always a number of people who find fault with anything.  So when I read negative reviews I try to ignore a certain percentage of complaints.  Perhaps that's what this is/was.  I don't really know.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

Brandon/Bruno2 is the one that told me about reading of problems at RedHead.  So I really don't know for sure that there is a problem, or that they haven't corrected it if there is one.

In reality, there are always a number of people who find fault with anything.  So when I read negative reviews I try to ignore a certain percentage of complaints.  Perhaps that's what this is/was.  I don't really know.

OK, fair enough then. I had come across complaints online before as well, but nothing consistent. My little short wheel base 2wd truck only driven occasionally should be an easy application for a RedHead box, compared to something that's lifted, with huge tires, and used offroad. I know that anything is possible, but I'm assuming that issues or failures would be more common in applications that are far more demanding than mine. Maybe I'm just optimistic;).

[844rd]

I was taking out the vinyl floor mat and insulation and found this spec sheet taped under the insulation under the drivers seat. Also done the cowl seal the way I learned from this forum.

[Gary Lewis]

Neat find.  I've done some work trying to interpret them: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/build-sheet-interpretation.html.

And the cowl seal looks good.  

[1986F150Six]

844rd wrote

 When I had the emission stuff removed, so went the charcoal canister, But now I have the gas tank vent line just laying there. I feel like I should have a makeshift filter or something there. Ant ideas????

I used a short section of vacuum hose and inserted what I believe is one of the small bubblers [aerators] used in an aquarium.

[844rd]

Thanks for the idea.

[Ford F834]

If you can find the vent hose from a diesel, it is the same as the non-emissions Canadian trucks that did not have the charcoal evap canisters. The hose is just fitted with a breathing cap (button shaped cap with a 3-fin post that plugs into the end of the vent hose. That is what I put on my ‘81 since I had the two tanks that came out of my ‘86 IDI.

[844rd]

Thanks for that info.

[Sully69]

In case anyone is interested. I pulled the Speedo to paint the needle. While it was drying I pulled the trip odometer to check it out. I found that the pin holding the reset mechanism etc was bent and that's what messed up the numbers. With the pin bent, the mechanism acts like a scraper as it gets pushed out of position and rubs all the paint and plastic/rubber off the wheels. Too late for mine but if someone notices the paint fading on their trip odometer, they should check the pin to see it it's bent.

Sully

On Thu, Sep 6, 2018, 4:36 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I've not heard of anyone repainting them, but from the instructions it looks like you might be able to remove the gears with the numbers on them.  That might make it easier.  But, not easy as there are lots of numbers to repaint.  Like 60 of them?

It might be easier to find a better odometer.

---

If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/84-F-150-300i6-3-speed-OD-2-47-rears-2WD-tp14192p14251.html

To unsubscribe from 84 F-150 300i6 3 speed OD 2.47 rears 2WD, click here.
NAML

[Gary Lewis]

That's good (or bad?) to know.  Thanks for that tip.

[844rd]

I got a new (used from ebay) gauge cluster panel with a trip Odometer and painted the needles yesterday and I did notice that 3 or 4 numbers were Partly rub off on the trip odometer. I painted the numbers back. I will look at the pin for damage. I still will have to take the pins out of the main one to change the numbers to match the old one and hope that I don't mess it up when I do this.

[Sully69]

844rd
You can change your odometer over to the new cluster, it's held on by two screws (and the needle up front) the trip odometer is held on to the reg odometer by two screw as well. Just remove your odometer and the trip odometer from the new cluster. Add the trip odometer to the bottom of your odometer and mount them to the faceplate from the new Speedo.
Sully

[844rd]

OH cool thanks Sully, I'll try doing that. I was a little nervous to push the pin out as I didn't want to bend anything.

[Steve83]

Sully69 wrote

...rubs all the paint and plastic/rubber off the wheels. Too late for mine...

If you want to salvage them without years of hand-painting numbers, consider printing a label strip to wrap around the wheel.  It will take a little experimenting to get the right length, but once you have it figured out, you could do a whole odometer in a minute.  Or make sets for other people to repair theirs.  The links in this caption will take you to the printer I have, which is one of the more-versatile types because it can print images, including images of stylized text.  It's not limited to a few fonts that are loaded in it because it has none - it only works from a computer, which can have thousands of fonts (usually free to download).



You can buy OEM or aftermarket tapes with nearly any color-combo you can imagine.  To print "clear" text, print the background color on clear tape, leaving the text clear.

[844rd]

I bought a Interment Panel with a tach and trip meter to replace mine that did not have that. I replaced the bulbs with blue LED's for the gauges and white ones for top indicators. Gary has asked before being I have a standard if the shift light worked. Now I know why it never lighted up. As you can see in the pic's there is no wiring set up for it or the other side for the 4X4 light. So being mine is a 2WD, maybe it was on higher trim models or just 4X4's. Also the date of manufacture and I assume the part numbers are on the back.
 
So what is this dark blue bulb looking thing?? (last pic.)

[Gary Lewis]

Boy, those gauges look exactly like mine.  Are you sure that's not my pic?  

Did the tach work?

And, the blue bulb is the light source for the headlight and wiper switches.

[844rd]

Yes the tach works great! but I need to look into the light for the wiper switch. I can't remember seeing light down there. Where do you find and new bulb?

[Gary Lewis]

I think it is the same bulb as the instruments, but I don't remember.  I can check tomorrow though.

[844rd]

OK Thanks...

[FuzzFace2]

Gauges look great
Who did you get the bulbs thru and got part numbers?
Do they dim?
I got to pull my cluster back out and check the lights, I got lazy and did not replace them, and I think 1 or 2 are not working so might go LED's

On the light / wiper light I don't think it uses the 194 bulb (push in type), think it is a push in and turn type but could be wrong.
Do you have a light for the ash tray? Think some did and why I asked.

What is this shift light you talk of? Is it marked that way? I will have to check my cluster as I did not see this.
I know of the 4x4 light and I thought it had it's own harness for this?
Could the shift light be the same?
If it is a blank you can get the sockets (pig tail) to fit the opening and wire it up to a switch that say turns on back up lights or driving lights to know they are on.
Dave ----

edit: I know why I have not seen that, I don't have that part of the cluster on yet.
I have 1 light that comes on when I turn the key on to start it and had to go look what it was. Think it was for the seat belts or something like that, stays on for maybe 10 seconds or so.
Dave ----