‘82 Bronco restoration

[Gary Lewis]

Part numbers for the windshield trim retainers are shown here: Exterior/Exterior Trim & Moulding and on the Windshield Trim tab.

[FuzzFace2]

BTW if you talk to anyone of age that has done glass work everything up to when glass was flush mounted (mid 80's in cars?) they were all set using butyl tape.

When you do a Google search and the ones saying the law says it has to be glued in is BS on cars & trucks that the factory used the butyl tape on.
 Most techs are to young to have done any butyl tape glass installs and the schools that they went to tell them the law says no butyl tape!
Now it may be law if it was glued in from the factory it has to be done back the same way.

Also as for the "glass popping out" with butyl of you hit something is also BS.
I have a car I did over 25 maybe closer to 30 years and I can try and push the glass out with my feet and the glass will crack but not pop out!

I has a state inspector say the glass would pop out because I did not have the molding on! I pounded on the glass from the inside to the point I was going to break it and it never moved. He had to pass the car but still made note of it. That is the same glass in the car above.

Now it is your car / truck so you can do it any way you want but mine will be with butyl tape and thinking I will have to do it myself. Thing is the glass is heavy so I need to find someone to help me when the time comes.
Dave ----

[Steve83]

Dk46 wrote

I bought the clips that go on the truck but don't have but a few pieces that go in the chrome trim. ...are there any rubber pieces or setting blocks that are needed to put the windshield back in?

This shows & the caption lists the trim & clips:



The clips for the top & sides are common & have always been available.  Only the bottom clips were out-of-production for a few years, but last time I looked they were also available new.  The setting blocks are plastic; not rubber.  The trim is Aluminum; not chrome.  Regardless of law or originality, urethane is better than butyl, and probably costs less (because it's so much more common).  So there's no reason to use butyl, or R12, or incandescent headlights, or leaded gas...

[Dk46]

Took care of the windshield trim. Taking a short break from body work, the sanding is killin me, to clean up the engine bay. It is a mess. I know all of the smog has been unhooked but there ate a couple of things that I don’t know what they are. The small pert in the back only has a air/vacuum line connected the the front part, but the hoses coming from it are both cut. Don’t look like it’s been used in forever. Thanks in advance……

[FuzzFace2]

Dk46 wrote

Took care of the windshield trim. Taking a short break from body work, the sanding is killin me, to clean up the engine bay. It is a mess. I know all of the smog has been unhooked but there ate a couple of things that I don’t know what they are. The small pert in the back only has a air/vacuum line connected the the front part, but the hoses coming from it are both cut. Don’t look like it’s been used in forever. Thanks in advance……

Dan, does the truck have an air horn mounted some where?
That first picture looks to be a vacuum power air compressor. It uses engine vacuum to work the compressor to build air PSI and it is stored in the tank in the 2nd picture.
There looks to be a electric valve, the thing with wires out the end, and when power is put to it, it opens and lets air to the horns.
Dave ----

[Dk46]

If it had an air horn it was gone when I bought it. Thanks for the info, they are gonna go. By the way, I think most of this truck has the original paint. The “freewheeling” striping and glue under it is some of the most stubborn stuff I’ve ever tried to get off.  Also has the original ford rear speakers.

[Steve83]

[Gary Lewis]

I think Steve nailed it.  

[FuzzFace2]

Gary Lewis wrote

I think Steve nailed it.  

What am I chopped liver
I pointed Steve where to look in my post. J/K

I am guessing this was a Ford option?
I know when I added air horns to my 86  K5 Blazer with a 6.2 diesel, no vacuum, I had to go with the type that had a small compressor turned by a 12v motor and small belt.
It would build 110 psi and came with a hose to blow up tires.
Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry!  I'm just trying to catch up after taking part of a day off yesterday, and I'm obviously not reading everything as well as I should.  

[Steve83]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I am guessing this was a Ford option?

Yes, that diagram is from Ford (somehow - I forget where I found it) and those are Ford base PNs in it.

[Dk46]

Well I would have never guessed that it would have been a factory option. I took it off and if anyone would like to have it, I got it.  Another question, what would make the key switch real stiff? Feels like it’s binding up. 

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 9, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Steve83 [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

FuzzFace2 wrote

I am guessing this was a Ford option?

Yes, that diagram is from Ford (somehow - I forget where I found it) and those are Ford base PNs in it.

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NAML

[Gary Lewis]

There are at least two possible reasons for the key to be tight.  First, perhaps the wheel is turned and the steering wheel lock is what is keeping it from straightening up.  If so, try turning the wheel a bit one way or the other to free the key.

Another is that the lube in the tumbler and/or switch is old and hard.  See the Ignition Switch tab here for what to do about that: Electrical/Ignition.

Look on Page 4 here for a picture of the air horns: Literature/1982 Literature/1982 Accessories.

It appears there were two kits, and here's what was in them:

[Steve83]

Dk46 wrote

...what would make the key switch real stiff? Feels like it’s binding up.

Look carefully at the hole in the column where the turn signal stalk goes in.  Is it rectangular?  Or is it sort of triangular, with the point to the wheel?  Can you see a vertical bar inside that the stalk almost touches?  Does the stalk pull to the rear (toward the wheel)?  IOW: is it a fixed column, or a tilt?  Post pics.

[Dk46]

Been busy with other things to do but still have ignition switch issues. It is a tilt wheel. I lowered the column and took this picture. Thanks

[Steve83]

Dk46 wrote

It is a tilt wheel.

Then that's probably why the key is stiff - the actuators are probably grimy, and about to break:

[Gary Lewis]

Danny - You said earlier "Another question, what would make the key switch real stiff? Feels like it’s binding up."  There are at least two reasons - the lube in the ignition switch itself has dried up and/or the switch is binding, or the linkage in the steering column is broken/binding.

If you go to the Electrical/Ignition page and click on the Ignition Switch tab you'll see a discussion of how to remove and re-install the switch.  I'd pull the switch and see if the key now turns smoothly or if it still binds.  If it binds or is rough w/o the switch you know it is the linkage in the column.

If the linkage seems to be the problem you can see several links here (http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns1.html) that discuss how to repair it.  But if the problem appears to be the switch then lube it and re-install it as described in the previous link.

[Dk46]

Took the ignition switch off and cleaned and lubricated it and it's working 100% better. Thanks
I've been tinkering with the power locks and windows. All of the switches were cracked or completely missing. None were in the door panel at all. I know GM window switches don't work the same as Ford but what about gm door lock switches?  I'm gonna have to figure something out for the windows, I don't have switches, retainers, or bezels. Any advice??

[1986F150Six]

Dk46 wrote

I've been tinkering with the power locks and windows. All of the switches were cracked or completely missing. None were in the door panel at all. I know GM window switches don't work the same as Ford but what about gm door lock switches?  I'm gonna have to figure something out for the windows, I don't have switches, retainers, or bezels. Any advice??

Dk46, I tried to find some switches [used or NOS], but only saw one used single switch. I did run across a kit which specifies it is for our era trucks. Be cautious and investigate, but it may work, even though not original.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-Ford-Truck-F-Series-Power-Window-Switch-Kit-w-Harness-fs-box-t19-351m/264317888889?fits=Year%3A1980%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3d8a92e979:g:EgUAAOSw4Ohc1hW0

[Dk46]

I'll check it out. What about door locks. Would gm lock buttons work my actuators?

Danny

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From: 1986F150Six [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <ml+[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019 5:10:59 PM
To: Dk46
Subject: Re: ‘82 Bronco restoration

 

Dk46 wrote

I've been tinkering with the power locks and windows. All of the switches were cracked or completely missing. None were in the door panel at all. I know GM window switches don't work the same as Ford but what about gm door lock switches?  I'm gonna have to figure something out for the windows, I don't have switches, retainers, or bezels. Any advice??

Dk46, I tried to find some switches [used or NOS], but only saw one used single switch. I did run across a kit which specifies it is for our era trucks. Be cautious and investigate, but it may work, even though not original.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-Ford-Truck-F-Series-Power-Window-Switch-Kit-w-Harness-fs-box-t19-351m/264317888889?fits=Year%3A1980%7CModel%3AF-150%7CMake%3AFord&hash=item3d8a92e979:g:EgUAAOSw4Ohc1hW0

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NAML