7200VV swap for Motorcraft 2150

[BeagleRock]

Hi Newby here in Oklahoma. Looking to ditch the 7200VV in my 83 F-150 w/351W in favor of the 2150 carburetor. I understand I have to change out distributor and go with the blue grommet DSII ignition box along with a wiring harness that's different from the DSIII. I  would appreciate a simple solution to this alteration that a somewhat knowledgeable guy  could do. Main thing for me is all the vacuum lines. ie; what goes where on carburetor, what's necessary and what to plug etc. Thanks in advance Beaglerock. I've also noticed a plethora of 2150 carbs to choose from,Should I get an 82/83 carb or will any of them work that has the automatic transmission connection on the linkage?  

[Gary Lewis]

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum!  What part of Okiehoma?  I'm in Skiatook, and have guys from the forum at my shop frequently to swap parts, do a bit of work, and maybe a little bench-racing.

And, I host an annual All-Ford Truck Show & Swap Meet in Sept.  This year's meet had people from CA, AZ, CO, KS, and AL, as well as lots of Okies.  Plus, Tim Meyer was here with several engines as well as many goodies, including his aluminum Cleveland block.  And we had a welding equipment demonstration where you could try your hand at welding and plasma cutting.  Next year's will be on the 15th and is being billed as the international one as guys from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Germany, and Poland have said they plan to be here.  Y'all come!

As for the conversion, you are right that you need the DS-II harness, a blue-grommeted box, and a DS-II dizzy.  And the carb can be any 2100 or 2150 that has a transmission connection.  However, there are lots of different 2100/2150 carbs.  You'll want a non-feedback design, and one that is sized correctly for a 351.  

But, there's another question to answer - are you keeping the EGR?  That's pertinent because the jetting was changed when EGR was introduced as the engineers assumed exhaust gas would dilute the mix so they had to add fuel.  So, if you keep the EGR you'll want a carb that was jetting for that, which would be from the mid-70's on.  But if you are ditching the EGR you'll want an earlier carb - unless you plan to put a wide-band air/fuel meter on and then tune the carb.

In any event, if you don't have a use for the VV then I'd put it in my "museum" or "eclectic collection" of carbs.

On the vacuum connections, I have a page that explains what you need here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-systems.html.  But, that assumes that you don't want to hook up all of the emissions stuff that was originally on the truck - if it is still there.  If you do you'll have to use your vacuum routing sticker, the one that looks like the ones shown here, to re-plumb to the new carb.  Post a pic of your sticker here and we can help.

[PetesPonies]

Since you are ditching parts, there are other alternatives. Running a GM HEI module to work with the Duraspark distributor is a good choice. I ran this combo on  truck and it as great. It also means you don't need a DS II harness .  as you can easy make up the wiring needed to run the GM module. You could, if you wanted, gut a stock box and mount the HEI inside, I have seen that done. I chose to mount it on an aluminum plate and cover with a plastic cover,so it was hidden. The HEI module supplies a better spark than the DS and they are cheAp, about $19. The wiring is really quite easy. A 2150 is a good carb and easy to find. Since you are going this far into the swap, you might as well play with the tuning a bit to get the jetting correct for your area.

[85lebaront2]

Using the HEI module, good idea, would he need to go to an E-core coil? I would suspect not as the Lucas conversions I did at the dealership were from the OPUS system to the "Constant Energy" system, which was a GM HEI module in a nice aluminum heat sink box that the coil was bolted through with longer bolts. The replacement distributor had a Chrysler pickup and 4 vane trigger wheel. Ran great!

If you can find an MG B or Midget with either the conversion or original (also Jag sixes) grab the box and wires.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Most people would say to use the new carburetors *ported* vacuum connection to operate the DSII distributor advance.

Ford did not always do it this way, but many people do, and report good results.
(so take the routing diagram as a suggestion and not gospel)

Venturi size depends on your engine, driving style, and goals...

[BeagleRock]

Wow! Small world , I'm down here in Muskogee. Worked all night in Tulsa on 31st and Havard for an old soul that needs a little help getting around occasionally.
Gary everything thing on my truck is original,would like to keep it that way but am unable to find the 1-684 Holley direct replacement. I original sit with the afore mentioned gentleman tonight, so I'm getting ready to head back up there shortly.  I'll try and get back with you and a couple of other responders tomorrow. I  worked outside all day and just woke up. As you know it was a gorgeous day!!! Thanks Gary TTYL.

On Thursday, December 21, 2017 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum!  What part of Okiehoma?  I'm in Skiatook, and have guys from the forum at my shop frequently to swap parts, do a bit of work, and maybe a little bench-racing.

And, I host an annual All-Ford Truck Show & Swap Meet in Sept.  This year's meet had people from CA, AZ, CO, KS, and AL, as well as lots of Okies.  Plus, Tim Meyer was here with several engines as well as many goodies, including his aluminum Cleveland block.  And we had a welding equipment demonstration where you could try your hand at welding and plasma cutting.  Next year's will be on the 15th and is being billed as the international one as guys from New Zealand, Australia, Canada, Germany, and Poland have said they plan to be here.  Y'all come!

As for the conversion, you are right that you need the DS-II harness, a blue-grommeted box, and a DS-II dizzy.  And the carb can be any 2100 or 2150 that has a transmission connection.  However, there are lots of different 2100/2150 carbs.  You'll want a non-feedback design, and one that is sized correctly for a 351.  

But, there's another question to answer - are you keeping the EGR?  That's pertinent because the jetting was changed when EGR was introduced as the engineers assumed exhaust gas would dilute the mix so they had to add fuel.  So, if you keep the EGR you'll want a carb that was jetting for that, which would be from the mid-70's on.  But if you are ditching the EGR you'll want an earlier carb - unless you plan to put a wide-band air/fuel meter on and then tune the carb.

In any event, if you don't have a use for the VV then I'd put it in my "museum" or "eclectic collection" of carbs.

On the vacuum connections, I have a page that explains what you need here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-systems.html.  But, that assumes that you don't want to hook up all of the emissions stuff that was originally on the truck - if it is still there.  If you do you'll have to use your vacuum routing sticker, the one that looks like the ones shown here, to re-plumb to the new carb.  Post a pic of your sticker here and we can help.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's

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[PetesPonies]

When I did this conversion, I was going from a feedback setup on an '84 Bronco II. I removed computer, feedback carb and feedback distributor. It would be much the same the OP has to do. I used a stock "square" EFI coil. It worked well. I then changed engines and just used a Duraspark distributor for the new engine and hooked everything up the same. Here is the HEI before it was covered up.




If you look closely, you will see the square EFI coil on the drivers side in this pic.

[Gary Lewis]

BR - I'm going to be very busy for the next several days, but would love to meet you after the holidays and things settle down.  Might even have a 2150 for you.  Not sure how many I have, but should still have the one off Dad's truck.  It wasn't feedback so should work well for you if you are keeping the EGR.

And, I might actually have a DS-II distributor.  It is actually for a 351M/400, but if I recall correctly just changing the gear makes it fit a Windsor - although I'm not sure I have a Windsor gear.  Will have to see about that.  Plus, I have a few DS-II boxes.  But, I don't think I have a wiring harness.  However, maybe a salvage will have one or someone on here might.

Yes, it was a beautiful day, but I can hear the wind howling now from the north and the temp is dropping.  So, winter may have finally arrived.

[BeagleRock]

I understand, the holidays present many unexpected surprises, some pleasant, some not so much. Anyway that would be great if you have a 2150 on hand as the junkyard models look like they've been on the ocean for sometime!  I  already have a DSII module and the distributor, both brand spankin new ☺. Man they're really proud of some of the 2150's on ebay!  I'm thinking they weren't $259.00 brand new! Plus $75.00 core chg.
OK I'll leave you alone and wish you &  your's a Merry Christmas 🎄

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On Thursday, December 21, 2017 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

BR - I'm going to be very busy for the next several days, but would love to meet you after the holidays and things settle down.  Might even have a 2150 for you.  Not sure how many I have, but should still have the one off Dad's truck.  It wasn't feedback so should work well for you if you are keeping the EGR.

And, I might actually have a DS-II distributor.  It is actually for a 351M/400, but if I recall correctly just changing the gear makes it fit a Windsor - although I'm not sure I have a Windsor gear.  Will have to see about that.  Plus, I have a few DS-II boxes.  But, I don't think I have a wiring harness.  However, maybe a salvage will have one or someone on here might.

Yes, it was a beautiful day, but I can hear the wind howling now from the north and the temp is dropping.  So, winter may have finally arrived.

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[BeagleRock]

20171019_175127.jpg

[BeagleRock]

I don't even know how I posted that pic because I want to post a better one. New at this type of communication lol.

[Gary Lewis]

BR - The way to post pictures is to click Insert Image, above, and then click Choose File and find the file on your computer, select it, and click Open.  At that point you can click Insert Image on the open pop-up, which will put code in your post for the pic.

However, we are limited to pictures that are less than 1Mb, and yours is 3.5Mb so is too big.  You can either edit it with software on your computer or select Big Size before clicking Insert Image.  But, your picture is also rotated, and there's no provision for rotating on the forum.  And that does take software on the computer.  Just opening and re-saving it usually fixes that.

I edited your pic with Adobe Photoshop Express, which is free, and got this pic of a good-looking truck:

[BeagleRock]

Okie dokie

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On Saturday, December 23, 2017 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

BR - The way to post pictures is to click Insert Image, above, and then click Choose File and find the file on your computer, select it, and click Open.  At that point you can click Insert Image on the open pop-up, which will put code in your post for the pic.

However, we are limited to pictures that are less than 1Mb, and yours is 3.5Mb so is too big.  You can either edit it with software on your computer or select Big Size before clicking Insert Image.  But, your picture is also rotated, and there's no provision for rotating on the forum.  And that does take software on the computer.  Just opening and re-saving it usually fixes that.

I edited your pic with Adobe Photoshop Express, which is free, and got:

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[BeagleRock]

These any good?Screenshot_20171223-170842.pn

BeagleRock wrote

Hi Newby here in Oklahoma. Looking to ditch the 7200VV in my 83 F-150 w/351W in favor of the 2150 carburetor. I understand I have to change out distributor and go with the blue grommet DSII ignition box along with a wiring harness that's different from the DSIII. I would appreciate a simple solution to this alteration that a somewhat knowledgeable guy could do. Main thing for me is all the vacuum lines. ie; what goes where on carburetor, what's necessary and what to plug etc. Thanks in advance Beaglerock. I've also noticed a plethora of 2150 carbs to choose from,Should I get an 82/83 carb or will any of them work that has the automatic transmission connection on the linkage?

[85lebaront2]

I am not a big fan of Chinese Chevy distributors, knowing what decent parts for an HEI cost, a whole distributor for $50 scares me. Do what was mentioned earlier, DS-II distributor and use a GM 4 pin HEI module and either GM or Ford E-core coil. You will still have to do some wiring to use that, HEI is a current hog and doesn't use a resistor.

[BeagleRock]

Was kinda thinking that was awful cheap! Shaft is probably made of pot metal that would snap off in a heartbeat. Additionally a regular dizzy from Rock auto was $10.00 more! Guess it's too good to be true! 

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From: [hidden email]

Sent: December 28, 2017 9:50 PM

To: [hidden email]

Subject: Re: 7200VV swap for Motorcraft 2150

I am not a big fan of Chinese Chevy distributors, knowing what decent parts for an HEI cost, a whole distributor for $50 scares me. Do what was mentioned earlier, DS-II distributor and use a GM 4 pin HEI module and either GM or Ford E-core coil. You will still have to do some wiring to use that, HEI is a current hog and doesn't use a resistor.

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[PetesPonies]

I agree .  stay away. Just use a Duraspark distributor, rebuilt from an auto parts store. Then pick up the HEI module too. It's only about $20. Then a few wires, a heat sink and you are in business.

[Gary Lewis]

Or, buy my TMeyer distributor.  Tim makes it and puts an HEI module in it so there's no need for a Duraspark module, just the coil.  I have serial #1 from Tim and have powder coated it and sent it back to him for use on Dad's engine.  Tim then ran it on the dyno for a few pulls and then brought the engine to me.

However, I'm now going EFI on that engine and will use a 460 dizzy, so that one is for sale.  I'll sell it for half of whatever Tim is asking for a new one, and I've read that all we will have to do to make it work on a 351W is to replace the drive gear, which we can take from your existing distributor.  But, we should confirm that with Tim.

[BeagleRock]

Ok, sounds like those dizzies in the pic are junk.

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On Friday, December 29, 2017 PetesPonies [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

I agree .  stay away. Just use a Duraspark distributor, rebuilt from an auto parts store. Then pick up the HEI module too. It's only about $20. Then a few wires, a heat sink and you are in business.

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[BeagleRock]

Sounds like a plan.  Let me see how work goes for the next couple weeks or lack thereof! Thanks

On Friday, December 29, 2017 Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <[hidden email]> wrote:

Or, buy my TMeyer distributor.  Tim makes it and puts an HEI module in it so there's no need for a Duraspark module, just the coil.  I have serial #1 from Tim and have powder coated it and sent it back to him for use on Dad's engine.  Tim then ran it on the dyno for a few pulls and then brought the engine to me.

However, I'm now going EFI on that engine and will use a 460 dizzy, so that one is for sale.  I'll sell it for half of whatever Tim is asking for a new one, and I've read that all we will have to do to make it work on a 351W is to replace the drive gear, which we can take from your existing distributor.  But, we should confirm that with Tim.
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
Blue: 2015 F150 Platinum 4x4 SuperCrew wearing Blue Jeans & sporting a 3.5L EB & Max Tow
Big Blue: 1985 F250HD 4x4: 460/soon-to-be ZF5/3.55's

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