3G Alternator Conversion Page Upgrade.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Right, but you're not drawing anywhere near 130A.
And the drive belt would slip if you tried. (No, more tension will only kill the bearings)

Does it ever chirp on startup?

I like the 130 because it will still charge at idle with all the lights and wipers on and the heater blasting.
Thankfully I haven't been stuck in snowstorm traffic yet this year.

I do wonder what an inductive ammeter would show on the charge cable.
Or if a permanent installation of something like that is even possible.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - Interesting about the IDI's alternator mounts.  I assumed they mount with the pivot.  

As for graphs, I do remember those Ryan had.  But take a look at those here: Electrical/Alternators.

And I agree with you - I can't imagine the "little" 3G living long at 220A.  Not after seeing some of the big alternators that were designed for that kind of current.  Having said that, 1/2 of 220 is a lot more than 1/2 of 130, and that would sure be nice when winching.

Whisler - Jim is right, unless your battery has run down a lot from starting or leaving an accessory on, your alternator may have not been called on for very many amps.  And, yours may have a "soft-start" regulator, technically an LRC, in it which loads the alternator up slowly over several seconds, thereby reducing the belt squeal.

[Gary Lewis]

Jim - I forgot.  Does Fluke make an inductive ammeter that works with a remote display?  Brandon/Bruno2 has their DVM that works that way, but an ammeter that worked that way would be quite helpful.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'm not sure if they make a meter that could be hooked up so you could watch in real time.
Though I have duct taped a vacuum gauge to my cowl vent before, so I could see it while driving.

I was thinking of something more like an accessory gauge that could be left in place all the time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

From the DB website
7.3 pickups '95-'98 vans '95-'03

[Gary Lewis]

So, that's the one for the '92 E w/an IDI?

And yes, an ammeter that could be left in place would be cool.  It would probably be digital and use a very small shunt.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I can't even find a listing for a '92 E350 7.3.

I had captioned the pic, but it didn't show, so I edited the post to include the info.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't see a listing for it either.  Jonathan???

[ArdWrknTrk]

I do see a listing on eBay showing a Leece Neville fitting '88-'92 7.3's
But that is nothing like a 3G.



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-NEW-Ford-F250-F350-7-3L-Diesel-1988-92-w-7706J-7706JA/282856215823?hash=item41db8b550f:g:jI4AAOSwZR9ajRqQ&redirect=mobile


I think the best way to identify the 'correct' 3G is by its Lester number.
That way you can apply it to any manufacturer.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok. Here it is.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-ACDELCO-PRO-Reman-fits-1992-Ford-E-350-Econoline-Club-Wagon-7-3L-V8/401694122114?epid=76533411&hash=item5d86d5e082:g:b6IAAOSwXSJbIpqT&redirect=mobile

Jonathan is vindicated!     

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I agree that the Lester # may be the way to go.  I can cross-ref from the part # to the Lester number on DB's site.

And, speaking of cross-ref, our Interchange page shows two alternators for the '92 E-Series w/a 7.3L"

92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX
88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX

The Motorcraft is probably a 2G.

[ArdWrknTrk]

https://www.obbstartersandalternators.com/ford-alternator-7756-f2uu-10300-f2uz-10346-f2uz-10346-f2uu-7756-p-3521.html

Ford #'s and Lester #7756-3

[Gary Lewis]

Good find!  But I don't see the Ford part number.  Am I missing it?

However, I did see that you can pay $29.99 for a 1 year protection plan - on an item with a lifetime warranty.  

Somewhere I have a sound effects LP where a guy walks up to the customer service desk with something that has a lifetime warranty.  He says "It failed" and you hear a pistol cock and fire.  

[Gary Lewis]

Man, you are ON FIRE!  Ok, I need to add that to the spreadsheet.  Thanks.  I'm headed to bed (I know it is later there) so will do it tomorrow.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, I've been poking around using the part #'s that BB shows on that link (7756-3N-2G, F2UU-10300-DC, F2UZ-10346-B, F2UZ-10346-BRM, F2UU-DC, 7756-3) and I get from no results to conflicting results.

On the Interchange page I cannot find those #'s.  Here's what it shows for 1992 E-Series:

92-92 8CYL.MOTORCRAFT.95 AMP F2HZ10346BX

92-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 100AMP, 7.3L DIESEL F0PZ10346CX
92-92 ALLCYLS..MOTORCRAFT, 130AMP-EXC. F1DZ10346BX

SCHOOLBUSPKG

92-92 8CYL,MOTORCRAFT, 130 AMP SCHOOLBUSPKG F3UZ10346AX F6UZ10346VAX

91-92 8CYL, MOTORCRAFT, 75 AMP E9PZ10346AX

92-92 ALL CYL,MOTORCRAFT,70 AMP F0PZ10346DX

88-97 8CYL 7.3L LEECE-NEVILLE,165 AMP F4UZ10346AX W/AMBULANCE PREP. OPTION PACKAGE

92-95 6CYL 4.9L MOTORCRAFT, 95 AMP F6PZ10346HA

DB doesn't show most of the BB part numbers, and the one it does show has a serpentine pulley.  And, from what I can find, all of the ones that would fit a 7.3L have the 3-point fixed mount awa a serp pulley.  But their #'s don't match any of the ones in the Interchange.

I am CONFUSED!    What am I missing?

But, on a positive note, I've formatted the spreadsheet differently to make things more obvious/intuitive.  That's 'cause I asked my wife what she understood from the previous format, and she misunderstood what was intended.  So, I revised it and bounced that off of her.  See what y'all think.

[Steve83]

Shunt 50A, cheap display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P0W63PY
Shunt 100A, big display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KPXVNY5
Inductive 200A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4CWKRJ

But I think they're all unnecessary distractions.  A voltmeter & ALT light are sufficient to monitor the charging status.

[Gary Lewis]

Steve - The last one is cool!  And for the price it would be nice to have if you were testing an alternator.  

By the way, did you see my link to your clocking instructions in the draft 3G page?  It is about half-way down on the Wiring It tab, under A Word On Clocking.  Just want to make sure you are ok with that.

All - Still looking for feedback on the whole thing, but especially on the choke discussion.  I see no reason to have it because the 3G supports an e-choke off the stator wire just like a 1G does.  So, is there any reason to keep it?

[Steve83]

You're welcome to link anything.  Yes, I'd either dump the whole discussion about the 12V choke heater; or just mention that some people do it, but it's NOT necessary.  Also: the indicator light doesn't excite the alternator - the 12V coming from the key just tells the VR (via its I pin) to turn on, whether or not there's a lamp or resistor in the circuit.  All the electricity for charging (exciting) the rotor windings comes through the A wire.  The lamp is only used when the VR detects a fault, and grounds the I pin.  The resistor is only there in case the bulb burns out, so the VR still gets the 12V "on" signal.


...and I noticed a few typos...   But my mother psychologically scarred me as a child with proper spelling & grammar.

[Dyn Blin]

I vote to leave the 12v vs 7.5 v electric choke discussion in, maybe even with its own tab, with the confirmation that it's not a functional concern.  

There's a lot of back of forth on the subject in other forums with conflicting advice.  The pages on this site are distilled into "fact" & verified function, and I would guess others will come here to clarify & would appreciate seeing it addressed.

[Gary Lewis]

Steve - Good points on the light/resistor.  I didn't write that and will admit I didn't look all that closely at it, but I'll edit that part.  And, I'll try to find the typos, but if you see some please point them out as I can use the help.

Mark & Steve - Good points on the choke as well.  I like the idea of a new tab and moving it there, maybe with a reference to it in the Wiring It verbiage.  Let me see what I can come up with.