300 Sniper Install and Core Support Replacement

[Tyler]

Pictures to back up my lessons learned in the above post.

[Gary Lewis]

Congrat's!!!!!  That's just a good feeling.  

And thanks for the lessons-learned list.  It'll help someone.

Looking forward to your thoughts after driving it a bit.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Glad to hear it's all come together for you!  

So the Y-pipe does fit (from the top) or the old one was bent and the new one is good?

We used a 1 7/8" hole saw on a hex extension and had that rear pipe cleaned out in a minute or two.
Sorry you had so much grief.

[grumpin]

Nice job!

[Tyler]

Thanks! And thanks for the help.  It's much easier to undertake these types of projects when you have a community that is eager to provide encouragement and guidance.  Even if you could have figured it out yourself.  "Jump, jump, jump, jump....don't land on that rock!"  LOL.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Can you elaborate on what happened when drilling your tank?

Back in the day, when brazing motorcycle tanks, we would put a chunk of dry ice in there.
Fast forward and I use the gas from my Mig welder to purge because I can't really weld a new bung or petcock in under water.
It just boils and pulls all the heat away.

[Gary Lewis]

Ty - Much easier when you have a community to ask questions of.  

Jim - I would never have thought of using the gas from the MIG welder!  Good thinking!

[Tyler]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Can you elaborate on what happened when drilling your tank?

Back in the day, when brazing motorcycle tanks, we would put a chunk of dry ice in there.
Fast forward and I use the gas from my Mig welder to purge because I can't really weld a new bung or petcock in under water.
It just boils and pulls all the heat away.

The best thing that happened is that nothing happened.  I filled the tank completely with water before drilling the hole.  Used some 30W oil as cutting oil to avoid sparks.   Then cleaned it all out using dish soap and sloshing.

[Tyler]

Gary Lewis wrote

Ty - Much easier when you have a community to ask questions of.  

Jim - I would never have thought of using the gas from the MIG welder!  Good thinking!

Yes, Gary.  Indeed! And thank you, my friend.

I took my first real drive yesterday after the taillight fiasco was cleared up.  My local shop installed a 2.5" cat back exhaust behind the walker y pipe and cat.  It sounds fantastic except for a decent drone on the highway.   I'm having a resonator added.

However!  I cannot overstate how fantastic the truck runs with the Sniper.  Now I understand why everyone loves this motor.  (And also how badly mine was tuned with the 4 barrel carb on it.)  Night and day difference.   The throttle response is instant.  

No regrets, just miles of smiles. And I don't have to worry so much about ethanol in the fuel or altitude changes.

A friend of mine owns a dyno and wants to see where the power band is as well as the numbers to compare with Ford published specs.  If we run it, I'll post results here.

[Gary Lewis]

So glad it runs well.  That makes it all worthwhile.  

As for the engine spec's, we have them on the page at Documentation/Engines/300 Six and then the Specifications tab.  But you have to scroll down as they didn't put the torque and HP spec's in the dealer facts books until 1982.

On the drone, you might let the system take a "set" before adding a resonator.  I have ~1000 miles on my system and it changed quite a bit during that time.  But most of what happened was that the drone became more focused, right at 65 MPH in OD.  

So I understand your desire for a resonator.  But what one to use might differ with what it settles into.