2bbl carb questions

[Ga]

I have a few questions about my New carb. I cant compare to the one which is on because the choke is missing .
1. What should connect to this part. It wil suck vacuum.

2. If I put power on this the choke wil go on or of?

3. I gues this are airflow things. Is this a question of hearing feeling and turning. Or een co gauge the only way?

[85lebaront2]

Ok, picture 1, brass nipple is for the hot air source and since you don't have your truck listed I have no idea what engine you have. 302 and 351W will have the choke stove (hot air source) in the right side exhaust manifold. 351M. 400 and 460 the choke stove is in the itake manifold.

Picture 2, that is for the electric choke heater, if it is the normal Ford one it is designed for 7 volts DC from the alternator stator (S) terminal.

Picture 3, I always tuned my carburetors by ear, even synchronising 4 Zenith-Stromberg CDs on a V12 Jaguar. Those are the idle mixture screws, in = leaner, out = richer. If you live in an area with emission testing, a meter is going to be the best way to adjust them.

[Ga]

Thanks for your answers. This is helling me out. I will look for the list. It is a 302.
I did not know there is 7volt on the car. So good to know.
At 3, I can do that. Do it also with the motorbikes.

[mat in tn]

I noticed that your signature says "aod". are you certain that the carb is compatible with the aod transmission? it is important as the throttle works hand in hand with the transmission through a connecting rod or cable, depending on year. this is NOT to be mistaken for a kick down rod.

[Ga]

I am quite certain it is not totaly compatble but probably better then how the present carb works towards the aod.
   

I made a post about this part of the problem with my carb. It is partly the reason to buy this carb. I know I havr to make some fixes to this carb as well

https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/#nabble+template%2FNamlServlet.jtp%3Fmacro%3Dfinish_registration_page%26email%3Dga%2540deschram.nl%26key%3D0.28060581623877334%26date%3D1714315821118

[mat in tn]

please be certain of the aod compatibility before driving it. if not, then it's possible you could end up needing a new transmission.  that linkage rod is NOT a kickdown rod for the simple purpose of overriding governor pressure to cause a downshift. it is critical valve regulation for not only shift timing but clutch holding pressure. slipping can burn this trans and quickly. do not drive disconnected at the carb. if you need to move it from space to space before its drive able on the road, take the rod off completely. this will avoid slipping the clutches, but it still will not shift right. harsh and late.