1986 F-150 4x4: "Ol' Blue"

[Fredwood]

Hello all -

I am from Klein, Texas and this is my 1986 F-150 XLT Lariat. It is a SuperCab long box with the 5.8L H.O., a C6, and 3.50 gears with rear limited-slip differential. It has has some rot in the body and a couple spots in the bed, but it should all be rather manageable. It does not currently run and has been sitting for upwards of 8 years, but the mechanical components and chassis appear to be solid, if not a little crusty from sitting. This is my first project vehicle, so I have a lot to learn, but this seems to be the place to look for help and guidance. It took a few years to find what I was looking for, so I cannot wait to get it running just in time to tear it all apart.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Welcome!
It does seem a good idea to get the truck running before you make bigger plans.
Fortunately the DSII ignition and C6 are both simple and stout.
And parts are readily available for the 351.

[grumpin]

Welcome!

[jdavidsmi]

Welcome, I’m sure you will fine answers to your questions.

[rcarlisle]

Looks like fun.  When you get really ready to get your hands dirty, let us all know what it does and doesn't do and someone can possibly help you in the right direction.   MAke sure the engine isn't locked to start with.   After that, just a matter of some oil, coolant, spark, air, and fuel.   Fuel injected or carbed?

I look forward to seeing this one come to life.

[ArdWrknTrk]

rcarlisle wrote

....just a matter of some oil, coolant, spark, air, and fuel.   Fuel injected or carbed?

351 HO would have the venerable 4180 4V carburetor and DuraSpark ignition Randy.

As I said above, it really doesn't get simpler or more reliable with this era of trucks.

Hopefully he can get the engine freed up and running without too much trouble.  

[Fredwood]

Carbed with a 4bbl Holley 4180C, just as ArdWrknTrk stated. I am fairly certain that the motor is not siezed up. Going to pull the plugs and put a borescope in each chamber tomorrow to see what it looks like, spray some fogging oil in each, and, if it all looks good, put a ratchet on the crank bolt and make sure it spins - at least that is the plan.

Some good news is that it does not look like the motor leaks as it is full of old oil. If it does leak, it it is very minimal. Obviously I am going to change it and put a new filter on before I test the system and try to start the thing up. We will see what happens when the system is pressurized for the first time in a while.

I have yet to check the coolant and the fuel line is disconnected just before the pump - where the hard line starts and goes to the tank selector valve.

[rcarlisle]

If you decide to use that old fuel line, disconnect and blow the whole thing out, make sure it has no obstructions in it.  

Sounds like you know what you're doing.   I should probably just watch to see what happens.   Goodest of luck to ya.

[rcarlisle]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

rcarlisle wrote

....just a matter of some oil, coolant, spark, air, and fuel.   Fuel injected or carbed?

351 HO would have the venerable 4180 4V carburetor and DuraSpark ignition Randy.

As I said above, it really doesn't get simpler or more reliable with this era of trucks.

Hopefully he can get the engine freed up and running without too much trouble.

  It's all I can do to keep up with the 81 year trucks.  Much less the variations in later years.   But you are right - they are almost as simple as an anvil.  ANd as reliable too mostly, once you get the bugs out from them having sat for years.  

[Fredwood]

I plan on flushing the tank and lines along with replacing the filter. It supposedly had a clogged fuel line, so that is a must-do. I have done, and continuing to do, tons of research, but I would not say that I know what I am doing just yet - just trying not to foul anything up worse than it already may or may not be.

I am not looking forward to figuring out the vacuum lines. I think I just need to start from scratch and figure it out that way. With it being an '86 and an XLT, there are lines everywhere.

Also, what do you all typically do with the fuel tank vapor system/lines - modify, return to original, delete? I found out that the line coming from the tanks to the engine bay along the passenger frame rail is for fuel vapor and is supposed to connect to two carbon filters and a myriad of other lines and hoses - all of which are missing except for the hard vapor line running to the tanks. A previous owner must have done a delete by just removing everything past where the hard line stops, but I cannot imagine that this is the "correct" method.

I appreciate any and all wisdom, advice, suggestions, and/or comments.

[rcarlisle]

There is a lot on here about vac lines and electrical.  And folks who can help you decipher all of that.  Gary will tell you, at some point, that this is like peeling an onion - lots of layers to be peeled.   And corrected.   But the folks on here are pretty good about helping you figure it all out - charts here too, for many trucks.  

As for the vapor canister, I think it can be left off, just the possibility of gas smell from the front of truck.  (I had a BMW motorocycle where you eventually had to remove or replace it - most ppl removed it)  My thought intially would be to find a cheap charcoal canister from RockAuto or parts store, and adapt it to work on your truck.   Jim will probably explain properly why my idea won't work though - and he'll be right because he knows way more than I do on these trucks.   I would think any filter would work though, if you could plumb it in.

[Fredwood]

That is kind of what I figured. My OCD will eventually make me do something about it, however.

I am glad that this can stay low on the list of priorities for now. Thanks for your input, Randy.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Randy, I don't think it's wrong to have a charcoal canister nor do I think it can't be plumbed in somehow.

You definitely don't want to take it all the way back to the rollover valves.
Your tank would leak every time you filled the truck up.

I do understand that people outside California get frustrated with the maze of vacuum lines and valves then decide to 'get rid of all this emissions crap'.…

[rcarlisle]

I think we are in agreement.   I also agree that you don't just remove emissions stuff because you don't think you need it.   in the case of the motorcycle, if you overfilled the tank, or bike rolled over, raw gas would get in the lines to the canister, clogging them.  This would cause idle and rideability issues.   In those cases, remove it, reroute the hoses to drain overfill and keep riding.  

ON these trucks it's not as critical, since it doesn't affect how the truck runs (does it?).  But "we" all gotta get him running so he can determine what else is working here.  

I figure you know way more than I do, so that's why I said you might correct me.   There may be some reason I don't know that would preclude an alternative canister.  You guys jumped in with Jonathan and got him helped with vacuum plumbing.   Figured this will go the same.  

[rcarlisle]

Fredwood wrote

That is kind of what I figured. My OCD will eventually make me do something about it, however.

I am glad that this can stay low on the list of priorities for now. Thanks for your input, Randy.

OMG, I think we all have some of that.   My truck had started fine since I bought it in MArch - but I absolutely HAD TO fix the choke to work properly.   Things like that will just settle in the back of your mind and keep you up at night.  

[Fredwood]

I have no intention on taking it back to the rollover valve. Just as long as the system was not deemed to be problematic, I will likely go back to stock or something similar.

Yes, job one is certainly to get it running, and that is my plan for this weekend. Bought a few new tools, chemicals and oil the other day. It also looks like the throttle cable has about 3/4" of slack and needs to be adjusted. I was informed when I purchased the truck that it was replaced after the original broke.