1985 F150 5.0 EFI - Chassis upgrades

[sgauvry]

Amongst the other work I wish to perform to make upgrades on my 1985 F150, I am interested in a few chassis upgrades.  

The front end has disk brakes.  I am wondering if there anyone has performed some upgrades to their front end to improve the ride and handling.  Am interested in modifications or improvements for steering, springs, etc.

While I'm at it, modifications to the rear end wouldn't be bad either.  I'll scour Gary's Garagemahal to see if there is any information regarding that, but wondered if there are any other recommendations from anyone that has accomplished upgrades to improve the ride.  Rear end housing, axles, etc.  

I believe my transmission is a c6 and it was rebuilt about 2 years ago.  Hopefully, there are no new issues there.  

[Gary Lewis]

Assuming your steering box is the original, the single biggest thing you can do for steering is probably a good steering box.  I would have said to go with a Red Head box, but it has recently been suggested in a thread that Blue Top boxes may be as good or better.

The reason both Red Head and Blue Top are better than a remanufactured box is that Ford used the case of the box for a bearing.  And even operating under constant lubrication, the box wears.  Unfortunately the remanufacturers don't do anything about that, but Red Head and Blue Top bore the box out and press a true bearing in.  That makes for a much tighter steering system.

Of course, you also want to check the tie rod ends and ball joints, as well as the "rag joint" in the steering shaft.  All of those things wear, and if you are looking for tight steering they'll probably need replaced.

In addition, there are the bushings in the front and rear suspension.  Any wear in any of those and the whole thing is loose and less than precise in steering.  But, if you think about buying new ones you'll quickly realize that there are two different kinds - polyurethane and rubber.  Ford used rubber and it works well to both allow movement but prevent bumps and harshness from coming through.  However, many people use poly bushings for replacements, and those provide a bit better precision in the steering but transmit more harshness through as they are stiffer.  That's your call.

And then, when all of those pieces are proven or replaced you'll need the whole thing aligned.

[sgauvry]

Thanks, Gary!

I have another question.  

Pennsylvania is fairly strict with regard to pollution control but gave older vehicles a bit of a pass.  Although all of my truck's emission control devices are functional, technically (by virtue of my truck's age) they do not have to work to pass inspection as technicians only do a "visual" to ensure all emission control devices are present.  

With that said, I am considering eliminating the functionality of most of the emissions control stuff in hopes it will improve on my engine's performance. That is a little complicated for me; I'm not certain which vacuum lines I must keep operational versus those I can plug.  

This seems silly to do since I must leave all of the components (egr valve tube, egr valve, vacuum canister, vacuum solenoids, vacuum lines, thermactor pump and tubes, etc.) in place.  But if it helps the functionality of my engine to plug up the emissions stuff, it may be worth it.

Any advice here is welcome.  

[Gary Lewis]

I have a page here that tells what vacuum systems/lines that I think are necessary - on a carbureted engine.  However, with the EFI system you really can't do too much w/o causing problems.  And, it isn't likely that anything you do will help performance.

Your EFI system is what is called a "speed density" system.  What that basically means is that the computer thinks it knows what the airflow into the engine is based on the throttle position.  In other words, there is no mass air flow sensor like is used on later EFI systems.  Further, your system is bank-fire where cylinders 1-4 all fire at the same time and 5-8 fire at the same time instead of the later system where each cylinder's injector fires on the intake stroke.

The point I'm trying to make is that your EFI system is very simple and cannot accommodate changes.  So, I doubt you can do much to the vacuum lines, or anything else for that matter, without causing the system to get upset.  And that is going to hurt performance rather than help since the computer will default to a limp-home mode if enough changes are made - and that will kill performance and economy.

[sgauvry]

Gary - I don't know remember if I already responded to this, but if not, I think you for the information!

[sgauvry]

Hi Gary - This is something I suspected but did not know for sure.  Now I know!  

I took my vehicle into this place: http://gintersautobody.com/auto-repair-services.html

They claimed they could do alot with the engine to eliminate much of the components that take up room in the engine compartment.  They suggested I could classify the vehicle as an antique and would no longer have to follow emission control regulations and could thereby eliminate many of the emissions control components. I imagine they would also replace the existing computer, and replace the MAP sensor with a MAF system. I was suspicious of the claim for the very reasons you indicated. Plus, the costs would be astronomical which is something that my disability status could not afford.  

Thanks for the guidance. I may ask for further guidance as I attempt to refurbish this vehicle, starting in the spring.

Steve

[85lebaront2]

Gary, please read what I posted previously on the bank fired injection. It is 4 end then 4 center cyls. they are grouped 1,4,5,8 and 2,3,6,7 not 1-4 and 5-8.

On upgrading the system, a 1987 up bank fired, speed density system has more capability and does away with some of the problem areas on the 1985.5 and 1986 systems. EGR goes from two solenoid valves to one duty cycle valve, TPS is no longer constrained to having to be right at 1.0 volt at closed throttle, knock sensor is moved to the rear of the block and O2 sensor is moved to beyond the Y in the exhaust pipe and is heated, solenoids are moved from the right front fender to the left valve cover area, air filter is located in left front behind the coolant and washer reservoir unit, MAP sensor is moved to the top of the underhood A/C casing. If these location changes are done and the engine harness modified to connect to them, then any later EEC-IV computer could be located in the original position but have better capabilities.

[Gary Lewis]

Steve - Welcome.  I don't think that outfit can make enough difference with upgrading the system to make it even remotely worth doing.  And, by the way, even the later sequential-fire systems still use a MAP sensor, but add a MAF sensor.

Bill - I read what you posted but then looked at the 1986 EVTM that some kind gentleman contributed.  And, at first blush I saw that cylinders 1-4 had a common and cylinders 5-8 had another common, so it looked like it was right bank vs left bank.  But, as it turns out, that is the power supply for each injector, and it makes perfect sense to supply power on a by-bank basis.  What I didn't look at is the sink side, the side that goes to the ECU.  So, please accept my apologies - I was wrong, again.