I'm in the process of swapping out an after market steering wheel for an original and I need to know what parts I need to get besides the wheel and horn pad which I have? every time I try to research this info I get
OEM part #D9HZ-13A805-B Horn Button Kit? I don't think that's correct. Thank you. |
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Dennis - Welcome to the forum. But before I discuss the horn pad I want to make sure you've read the guidelines. I ask because my email to you asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread to introduce yourself. You didn't start the new thread to introduce yourself so I want to make sure that you did read the guidelines.
We adhere to the guidelines and ask members to do the same, so we want to ensure you've had a chance to read them.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Received and understood. Done. DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 1:06 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote: Dennis - Welcome to the forum. But before I discuss the horn pad I want to make sure you've read the guidelines. I ask because my email to you asked you to go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new thread to introduce yourself. You didn't start the new thread to introduce yourself so I want to make sure that you did read the guidelines. |
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In reply to this post by dennisb
Do you have speed control? That makes a big difference.
And, by the way D9HZ-13A805-B is not a part number. The "H" in the prefix of D9HZ says it is an ID #. For these trucks that character is normally a "T" for a part number. As silly as it sounds, any # on a part is not a part number. From the mid-60's Ford had a "better idea" and put ID #'s, sometimes called engineering #'s, on the parts. And then they printed a cross reference between part numbers and ID #'s. Unfortunately I can't find D9HZ-13A805-B as an ID # in my cross ref. But you can see the horn pad part numbers at the page here: Documentation/Interior/Horn Pads. Anyway, tell us more about what you are doing so we can figure this out.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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no sir DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:31 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote: Do you have speed control? That makes a big difference. |
just the horn DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:33 PM dennisb [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:
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Dennis - This is your call, but you are replying via email rather than logging onto the forum. That works, sorta, but it copies in a lot of the previous message so the posts start looking pretty ugly. You replied "no sir", just two words, but see below what that creates.
Instead, if you clicked the link below the words "If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below:" you'd be taken to the forum itself and you can post w/o the extra baggage. As said, that's your call. But some people won't bother to read such a messy thread, so you limit the help you'll get.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by dennisb
Ok, you are just trying to put a horn button on a non-speed control truck using an aftermarket steering wheel. I know others have done this, although I haven't. So let's let them comment.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Sorry, I don't see a way to respond to you via the forum. I'm removing an aftermarket steering wheel and installing a used correct OEM wheel with a pad. after the install, the horn isn't working, I think i'm missing something? DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:42 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote: Dennis - This is your call, but you are replying via email rather than logging onto the forum. That works, sorta, but it copies in a lot of the previous message so the posts start looking pretty ugly. You replied "no sir", just two words, but see below what that creates. |
I have responded to the hidden email, what's next? DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 2:52 PM dennisb [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:
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Done. DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:06 PM dennisb [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote:
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In reply to this post by dennisb
Oh! I completely misunderstood. You are going back in with a stock column and can't get the horn to work.
I don't think I have a non-speed control horn pad to look at, but in the wheel there is a button that is a wiper that runs on a track in the column. If you have the wheel off you can short that track to ground and the horn should honk. Then with the wheel on you should have either one terminals sticking up or two. And a hole in the steering column where you'd put a stud to pull the wheel. The horn pad will have a connector that goes on that terminal and a spring clip that goes in the hole. And when you push the horn button it just shorts that terminal to ground. You can see the wiring on the page at Documentation/Electrical/EVTM/1985 EVTM and then go to the Horn & Cigar lighter. As for replying via the forum, it takes two steps. First, I've copied in the email I got, and then circled in red the link you need to click. That will take you to the post on the forum. And while looking at the post on the forum there's a "Reply" link to the upper right. Click on that and a window will open up, into which you type your reply. Then just click "Post Message" below that window on the left.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Thank you On Sat, Dec 26, 2020 at 3:14 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote: Oh! I completely misunderstood. You are going back in with a stock column and can't get the horn to work. DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS |
Thank's Gary.
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Oh! You figured out how to post here on the forum. Nice and clean post.
I'm going to look this afternoon to see if I have a horn pad w/o speed control. If I do I can take pics and show you what I'm talking about. And even if I don't I can take pics of one with speed control and point out which bits need to connect in order to honk the horn. Meanwhile, check this thread out: Steering Column Groun. There's a picture in there of the brushes and a discussion about grounds and testing to make the horn honk.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Administrator
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Ok, if you've read that thread then we'll pick up where it leaves off. In the pic below you can see the two brushes circled in blue and yellow.
In this pic you can see which of the standard steering wheel connections go to those brushes. And for a horn pad that has no speed control buttons you'll have a connector that goes over those two tabs. Then, when you push the horn button it connects the two circuits, which puts battery voltage to the horn. That's NOT the way the horn circuit works if you have the speed control wiring. So if your truck happens to have the speed control wiring, including the module under the dash between the steering column and ash tray, then it works differently. And I don't think a standard, non-speed control horn pad will honk the horn with that arrangement, although I've not tried it.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
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Awesome, thanks! On Mon, Dec 28, 2020 at 11:10 AM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <[hidden email]> wrote: Ok, if you've read that thread then we'll pick up where it leaves off. In the pic below you can see the two brushes circled in blue and yellow. DENNIS A. BYRNE "THANK GOD WE'RE NOT GETTING ALL THE GOVERNMENT WE'RE PAYING FOR." WILL ROGERS |
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