1984 F-150 302 Windsor 2WD - "Old Red"

[JMUBullnose]

Gary Lewis wrote

Big Blue's GVWR is 8600 lbs IIRC.  So yes, those are HD springs.

In your case I'd seriously consider air bags rather than heavier springs.  You can keep the ride you have and then level things up when you put a load on.

That's not a bad thought Gary - I'll have to run it up the flagpole.

Gas was so cheap on my last trip out with Old Red, I decided to fill up the rear tank for the first time in a while!  

...then yesterday afternoon I discovered that I've got a slight fuel leak at the tank switching unit. Looks like the spring clamp that keeps the hose from rear tank on broke, so it's just holding on by being dry and determined. My first step is going to be replacing the rubber fuel hoses and clamps I think. Maybe the tank switch too. Bronco graveyard doesn't seem to have the same as what I have under there. Time to go hunting!  

EDIT: LMC has the same universal tank switch (single wire).

[Gary Lewis]

You are lucky you have the simple switching unit.  

Have fun driving on that cheap gas!

[JMUBullnose]

Gary Lewis wrote

You are lucky you have the simple switching unit.  

Have fun driving on that cheap gas!

Agreed! I'm wondering if the LMC unit is the same as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ETOVZM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.aXLEb69E2WT1 

Rockauto only has the 6 pin/6 port options.

Is the fuel line size 8mm?

[Gary Lewis]

8mm is about 5/16" and the hoses are in inches.  But that may be correct.

Not sure about the fuel valve.

[FuzzFace2]

JMUBullnose wrote

Gary Lewis wrote

You are lucky you have the simple switching unit.  

Have fun driving on that cheap gas!

Agreed! I'm wondering if the LMC unit is the same as this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ETOVZM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.aXLEb69E2WT1 

Rockauto only has the 6 pin/6 port options.

Is the fuel line size 8mm?

I had to replace my switch valve, cant remember if I got it off Ebay or somewhere else now but what I found when looking for one was the way the wire connects.
The factory valve think had a spade and the wire the female spade that plugged on and as you can see the replacement has a threaded stud so have to change the wire end.

The other the factory valve has nuts welded to the bracket so the bolts go thru the frame and screw into the nuts. You can just use nuts, lock washers & bolts. I could not find any of the right size in my stash so I cut the nuts with part of the bracket off the factory valve so I could use the factory bolts and bolted the new valve to the frame.
Works great
Dave ----

[JMUBullnose]

Gary Lewis wrote

8mm is about 5/16" and the hoses are in inches.  But that may be correct.

Not sure about the fuel valve.

Sounds like a plan. Last fuel line question for now (promise!):

My local shop has both 5/16" fuel hose (low pressure) and 5/16" fuel injector hose. I'm presuming that since mine is carburated, it is likely low pressure hose but I could use either?  The fuel injector hose would just be stronger/thicker to withstand the higher pressure of a EFI system.

Do you guys use fuel line spring band clamps or the the screw tightened fuel line clamps? Currently the truck has the spring clamps (and one busted) - tempted to swap to the screw tightened one to avoid that in the future.

[JMUBullnose]

FuzzFace2 wrote

I had to replace my switch valve, cant remember if I got it off Ebay or somewhere else now but what I found when looking for one was the way the wire connects.
The factory valve think had a spade and the wire the female spade that plugged on and as you can see the replacement has a threaded stud so have to change the wire end.

The other the factory valve has nuts welded to the bracket so the bolts go thru the frame and screw into the nuts. You can just use nuts, lock washers & bolts. I could not find any of the right size in my stash so I cut the nuts with part of the bracket off the factory valve so I could use the factory bolts and bolted the new valve to the frame.
Works great
Dave ----

Thanks Dave! I'll keep that in mind, I saw that the new universal switch valves have the threaded stud for the hot wire from the selector switch instead of the spade. Might order the LMC one just to preserve the spade connector.

[Gary Lewis]

I use hose that says it is rated for ethanol.  I don't remember exactly what it says on it, but it says something about working with alcohol-based fuels.

But you are right about low pressure for carbs.  You don't need the stronger EFI-rated hose, but it won't hurt.

[JMUBullnose]

Gary Lewis wrote

I use hose that says it is rated for ethanol.  I don't remember exactly what it says on it, but it says something about working with alcohol-based fuels.

But you are right about low pressure for carbs.  You don't need the stronger EFI-rated hose, but it won't hurt.

Good catch Gary! I'll have to look for that - parsing through all the SAE 30 standards now...

[ArdWrknTrk]

8mm is 5/16, 10mm is 3/8.

My personal preference is low pressure fuel line and constant tension spring clamps.
I don't want to go back and have to tighten them as they take a set.

[JMUBullnose]

Blast from the past, I still exist! Switched jobs, spending a lot more time at home and have time to start working on Old Red more. This past weekend I swapped out the LMC power window adapter kit & old manual crank regulator to the OEM style power window regulator/motors. Super simple swap....once I found a 1/4" riveter! (Thank goodness for Harbor Freight!)

Removal of the LMC kit was easy, several screws holding it in place and it popped off. Drilled out the blind rivets for the hand crank regulators (while supporting the window with a board). Got the new assembly in and after a few minutes and looking at diagrams got the holes to line up and mounted with 1/4" rivets. Spliced the power wires together and reconnected the battery. Boom - power windows. First one took me half a day between figuring it all out and finding a tool. Passenger window took me under an hour! Photos for reference:


After:


Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars.

[1986F150Six]

JMUBullnose wrote

Side note - anyone have recommendations for replacing the old liner that was on the door, under the trim panels? I was thinking heavy duty plastic liner (8 mil?) with holes cut for the protrusions...similar to modern cars.

LMC indicates they sell a mylar water shield set [#49-5337]

https://media.lmctruck.com/pdf/FD/0057.pdf

[JMUBullnose]

Well how bout that! Thank you!

[kramttocs]

I used vapor barrier leftover from my crawlspace encapsulation and held it on with Eastwood flexible strip caulk. Considering it doesn't get any 'traffic' you'd be fine with the rolls of plastic you lay down for painting. $5 for (5) 9'x12' rolls here locally.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Just be sure to leave a vent somewhere.

Slamming the door will blow the windshield out when the glue gets old.

[Sac79]

I wasn't super happy with these. It might work better with your power windows, as it doesn't have a provision for the crank. Nothing really aligns well either. I can't remember how much they were($10 each?), but as I was installing them I thought they were a waste of money.

I should have just done what I did 4 years ago...
 

[ArdWrknTrk]

..... One contractor bag is enough to do both doors.  💡

[JMUBullnose]

Holy cow, has it really been over a year since I last posted here and about my truck!?  Good grief that's been a while, I've been lurking as I think of things to wrench on and look for parts. Life has changed quite a bit! Sold our house, moving over a few states and living in a condo while waiting for our new place to be built.

I did take the opportunity while the truck sat at my folk's house to have the local shop do some work on it - type of place that's been around for 30+ years and the owner himself does all the carb work.  So, I had the following done in the last couple months:
-Transmission Flush and filter change
-Rear Differential serviced
-Power steering serviced
-Replaced all the U-Joints
-Left outer tierod replaced (alignment checked and toe in set)
-Transmission mount replaced
-Carb rebuilt
-Headlight switch replaced
-Rubber Fuel lines from tanks to tank switch replaced

Talk about ticking off some boxes! Truck is driving better, feels pretty great when in motion, etc. Starting STILL remains an issue though if the truck has set for 3+ days (worse if it's been a couple weeks). I can't tell if I've got a fuel leak somewhere or some sort of odd siphon going on with my wonky tank switch (gas will siphon from rear tank to front tank until rear tank is empty).

So, coming back to the brain trust - any ideas on where to investigate next? Replace more of the soft fuel lines? Replace the tank switch on the frame? I just walked past the truck after it's been sitting since I drove it this previous Friday and caught a whiff of fuel - re-'igniting' my thoughts on the subject...

So, any thoughts folks? I know its been some time since I last said hello!

[FuzzFace2]

JMUBullnose wrote

Holy cow, has it really been over a year since I last posted here and about my truck!?

. Starting STILL remains an issue though if the truck has set for 3+ days (worse if it's been a couple weeks). I can't tell if I've got a fuel leak somewhere or some sort of odd siphon going on with my wonky tank switch (gas will siphon from rear tank to front tank until rear tank is empty).

So, any thoughts folks? I know its been some time since I last said hello!

Yes we have thoughts but some may not want to hear them

First know there is no way fuel can siphon out of the carb's fuel bowl as fuel comes into the top with an air gap to the supply so no way it can happen.

What is happening is normal with todays gas blend, it is evaporating and happens faster when heat is added to the carb.
You need to keep the carb as cool as you can and that is not easy with the heat under the hood.

If you do a search on "hot start" and "hard start after sitting" you should find information.
My truck can sit for a week and I just crank it a lot and pump the he11 out of the pedal till it fires up.
Dave ----

[JMUBullnose]

Oh we got a funny guy!  

Just noticed your photo - my truck is the inverse paint job of yours!

My thinking on the siphon is more of a "If the tank selector switch is stuck open, could fuel be siphoning back into the tank from the fuel lines?" (Not the carb fuel bowl)

Yeah - when I have a 'hard start' situation it usually takes a minute or two of cranking a few times with a couple pedal presses and then it'll start. Sometimes it catches but then bogs down and stalls when I shift into gear after letting it idle a couple minutes.

When I went to move the truck from my folks house, it hadn't been driven in a few weeks and the battery nearly went flat during cranking. Quick shot of starting ether and it fired right away and held idle.

My overaching goal is to make it so my wife feels comfortable that she can get out there and start it without having to monkey around with things for 5-10 minutes. (Patience, whats that? )