Hey guys, I’m new to the forum, thought I’d give a little background before my question. I’m in the process of rebuilding a 1982 F150 for use as a daily driver. I swapped out the stock 302 for a long block 351 from JEG’s and the stock AOD for a used M5R2 5spd. My truck is a 2wd long bed, and wanted to know what length driveshaft I need. Thanks guys.
1982 F150
-swapped out stock 302 with JEG’s 351w long block and stock AOD for M5R2 -2wd -long bed -regular cab |
Administrator
|
Welcome, Rooster! We'll get to the question in a bit, but first a bit of housekeeping. Normally introductions are done in the New Members Start Here folder as the guidelines are posting in that folder says you've had an opportunity to read them. So please assure us that you've read them?
And, I can move this thread there if you'd like and then you can open a new thread here in the main section with the title of your question on driveshafts. Or, you can continue on here. Your call. Also, where are you? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you if we had a city or zip/postal code. On the driveshaft, I don't know. Some of the guys may, but you can figure it out yourself if they don't. We have a page @ Documentation/Driveline/Drive Shafts that tells on the Application Chart tab. Last, if you'd create a signature that tells us about your truck then when you ask questions we won't have to guess at what you have. Instructions for a signature, as well as several other things, are in Bullnose Forum/Forum FAQ's.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by Rooster
Looks like you have duplicate threads. Ok to delete this one?
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
This post was updated on .
In reply to this post by Rooster
With all of that info in hand, still, nobody can answer that question. That being said, if you install the yoke on the trans, measure from the center of the u-joint cap loop to the center of the same place on the yoke on the rear diff and you will have the appromixat length of the drive shaft you need.
I have no idea if that trans has a fixed yoke on it or a slip yoke on it( one that slides on to a splined shaft sticking out of the tail shaft housing). If you have the latter, you need to put that yoke about half way in and then measure it. That way it will have the in and out movement for when the suspention moves up and down and makes the distance between the trans and the rear diff longer and shorter.
Steve
86 Bronco, XLT, 5.0 EFI, EEC IV, AOD, IFS, limited slip front and rear, 3.08 gears, Tilt steering, factory AC |
In reply to this post by Gary Lewis
Yes please. I’ve never been in a forum before and I’m having a hard time navigating through the process. Sorry for the inconvenience, I’m going through New topics right now Sent from App for Gmail Saturday, July 18, 2020, 11:21 AM -0400 from [hidden email] <[hidden email]>:
1982 F150
-swapped out stock 302 with JEG’s 351w long block and stock AOD for M5R2 -2wd -long bed -regular cab |
Administrator
|
In reply to this post by old55pete
There appears to be a problem with this thread. I can see the thread, but cannot reply to it in the forum nor do anything else to it. I suspect it is because there were two identical threads by the same author, and it confused the software. Given that, I'm replying by email - which isn't the recommended way to reply. Rooster - Sorry, I've not seen this happen before, so I recommend you start a new thread.
Gary, AKA "Gary fellow": Profile
Dad's: '81 F150 Ranger XLT 4x4: Down for restomod: Full-roller "stroked 351M" w/Trick Flow heads & intake, EEC-V SEFI/E4OD/3.50 gears w/Kevlar clutches
|
Edit this page |