1982 Bronco XLT

[Weberman]

Just looked more into it, see that they screw into the hubs body and the body is held in with a clip.

So I would have to buy new hubs if the bolt heads end up breaking off. Hopefully the soak will work on them. But I just don't know with such a small bolt.

[Gary Lewis]

Ahhh!  Those bolts.  Yes, they come with a new locking hub.  And they can be a bear to get out.  I put mine in with anti-seize, but that won't help you now.  Good luck!

[FuzzFace2]

If the oil doesn't work guess you can drill the heads off so the outer part can be removed and get to the ring holding the base on.
Then maybe you can vice grips on them to remove?
Dave. ----

[Weberman]

Well they called me and said they were to the point of drilling them out. They were able to get one out but that was it. I just picked it up and decided I'd work on it. I think I'm at at point where I snap them off and buy new hubs since the other ones are ugly and faded and kinda stiff anyways. Think I'll do rotors, bearings and hubs for both sides and call it good.

[Gary Lewis]

I had real fits with the Mile Markers I had on one truck.  The heads stripped out internally when I tried to back them out.  I tried left-handed extractors, to no avail.  I finally had to drill them out like you may have to do, but I was able to get new screws from Mile Marker.

So, when I put hubs on now I use anti-seize on the threads and the heads of the screws.  I sure don't want to have to do that again.

[Weberman]

I was gonna ask that next. Any preferred brands out there for rotors or hubs? Saw Warns and Warn Premiums on JBG. Didn't know what there was really or if one stood out from the other.

Forgot to say, when I picked it up and was taking it home...it did the popping again. It diminished and went to cutting out. Almost home with no tools I put the new module on. I was able to lift up on the module enough to get a new longer bolt for the heat sink in and screw it down to the other hole on the module so it would ground. It literally roared back to life when I started it. Just sounds much meaner/healthy. Took it out did VERY light pops and I think it stopped. Maybe getting some stuff off the plugs from a nice burn finally?? But it was just a few minutes away and I couldn't take it anymore it cutting out every 2 seconds. So either that new Standard is bad, or they're all just that bad. The AC Delco seems to be the way to go.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Glad to hear a new module is the answer.
Hopefully this one will last, once properly installed.

I try not to offer brand bias.
There are also Superwinch and Mile Marker brands.
Probably some others.
I have the Warn Premium.
They need a 7/8 turn, but offer very positive engagement and metal construction.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, glad you got the ignition going.  

On the hubs, I did like Jim and went with Warn Premiums.  I like the almost full turn of engagement as it is positive - Lock or Unlock doesn't change.  And the longer turn means they are easier to turn with your fingers.

[Weberman]

Is the Timken 4250 the right seal for changing the rotors and everything?
I think I've found that and I think a spindle seal. Should I do anything with the spindle while I'm there? I saw another bearing that they called inner that is just a bearing, no race, I'm assuming this is for the spindle?

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, I do believe that the Timken 4250 is the right one for your Bronco w/a Dana 44 front diff.  It was the correct one for Dad's truck.

But your question about bearings confused me.  You should have both an inner and outer wheel bearing.  There's no reason to replace them if they are in perfect shape, but if they have any etching or roughness they should be replaced.

[Weberman]

I believe I found a spindle bearing while looking on RockAuto. It was listed as an inner on their wheel bearings. Is that something I should replace? I'm not sure if the wheel bearings are bad, but I do hear a noise from them unless the loose nut would cause that? Or if the loose nut would cause them to wear more and probably should be replaced anyways.

[Gary Lewis]

The only way to tell if they are ok is to inspect them closely, and if you don't know what you are looking for it would probably be best to replace them.

[FuzzFace2]

Inner & outer wheel bearings & seals I would get local this way if there is an issue you can take it right back to get the right ones.

There should be numbers on the bearings & the seal and if you take the numbers to the parts store they might be able to cross them over to the new bearing.
Dave ----

[Weberman]

Updates on what I have found so far.

I got the passenger side down to the spindle. When I was taking the first nut loose, I saw the back nut turn with it. This was likely the cause of them not being able to align it. I got the driver's side lockout done today and it is dry in there. Someone has been in the other side as the bearings say Timken and there is grease everywhere. Can't get the spindle off so, I've ordered a socket to screw onto it and then for a slide hammer to be put on it. I have left the drivers side alone for now but started to halfway soak it by just spraying the front of the shield and letting it run down to the spindle. Wish I could've found this out sooner since the socket will be here Monday now.. Guess she'll be up on jack stands for the weekend.

[Weberman]

Got the spindles done, hopefully get everything else on tonight.

What's the torque for the spindle nuts? I thought I saw somewhere that it said 100ft-lbs when setting it, back it off and 20 ft-lbs. Then the outer is 120.

[Gary Lewis]

The procedure and specs are on the first page of the factory shop manual section on the Instructions tab at Documentation/Driveline/4WD FRONT HUBS & ROTORS.

[Weberman]

Got the rotors and bearings on tonight. Just lockouts left and then off to the alignment shop again.

[Gary Lewis]

  You'll be driving it soon!

[Weberman]

Hopefully. Tried to get them on before I had to leave the house and they didn't get put on. It seems they won't slide in all the way possibly. The outer snap ring seems pretty close. Saw in the instructions that the bearing nuts could interfere if the pin wasn't in the washer. The outer nut and washer are out and still won't go in. Saw that the axle might be getting pushed in so might try that when I get back home. The Warns are the same thickness as the ones I took out so I assume that the axle going back is probably happening..hopefully.

[Weberman]

Got everything together and good. Had to take it all apart again. I read a write up that said if it looks like the seal is starting, it will tighten up whenever the wheel bearing got tight. I should've known better as the axle shaft wouldn't be affected by that. So had to get that seal ring fully seated and the axle was far enough out that I could put the clip on then. Goes to the alignment shop tomorrow evening.

Bought another truck. No title, engine or trans so it was super cheap. Honestly bought it because it had the correct door panels and in black to match the interior. Was going to scrap it a bit after that but then I saw that it had a 9 in rear. Checked the front and saw that it had 3.50s in it so I may think about swapping third members since of the tire size. I'll have to check the rear if it is a limited slip or not. That would be a nice bonus too.