1982 Bronco 351 4x4 - Code name Esperanza

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, but the first round of rain just dampened up.  My brother, who lives in southern Kansas, said they got 2 1/2", and here in Tulsa where we are for the day they said they got lots of rain.  However, there are more rounds coming.

And, Ray Cecil just texted to say the wrenching session on his MiL's car isn't going to happen 'cause the car is toast.  So I'll be back inside the shop tomorrow on the RSK.

But, can you show us how you are shortening the wires?  Pics?

[ArdWrknTrk]

I DO like those valve covers!  

[Gsmblue]

Since my last project post a lot has happened, I started a new job and I have been away a lot, I nearly finished building my house too!

The last couple of days I have finally got to play with Espy! Two things have happened.

1. I finally replaced the radiator. I don’t why I left it so long, it took 30 mins, of which 10 were spent shouting at the dog!

2. Some electrical gremlins have popped up. Namely not starting, I was getting that horrid moment where you turn the key, get one clunk then nothing.. I switched the starter relay out and it was fine for a few days and then that death clunk again!

From reading around here I think it is one or more of the following

The starter is done
The wire/connections from the starter relay to the starter are done
Bad luck with the replacement starter relay
The earthing straps from the block are tired

I think I am just going to pull the lot. The cables/straps can definitely be changed. The starter can be tested and replaced if needed and that relay is probably toast from high current draw.

Can anyone help with where can I get a motor craft relay and what is the correct part number?

I am hoping to do this on Sunday, but thought I would check in with the brain trust here!

Happy New Year everyone!

[FuzzFace2]

Congrats on the job & house hope it has a place out of weather to work on the truck / projects.

Most of the time that "clunk" is a bad connection and you have 6 on just the battery cables and the relay has to have a good ground to the fender.

What relay did you remove and install?
If 1 or the other came with the truck I would be temped to reuse it then again I am lazy and would try the one that is in place and replace ALL the cables if you say they look like they could use replacing.

Once you replace the cables, you may find now that power is getting to where it needs to, all may be good.
Dave ----

[Gsmblue]

Thanks Dave, the house has a huge RV garage where i park ku trailer, i really need a dedicated shop!

i really think those cables are shot and the grounds are suspect. Probably just a good idea to get then sorted and see what happens. I hope i can do this tomorrow as i am off to Europe for 2 weeks for work!

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, congrat's!!  That's a LOT to have happen.  

On the starter, relay, and wiring, I'd recommend that you go with the later style PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) starter, as described here: Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter.  Ford went to that at least in the early 90's on your engine, and it cures a lot of ills by moving the heavy duty relay action to the starter itself.  That way your fender-mounted relay is seriously overkill and the brand you buy really won't matter.

[Gary Lewis]

Where you headed in Europe.  Used to live in the UK and have traveled western Europe quite a bit.

[FuzzFace2]

Gary Lewis wrote

Yes, congrat's!!  That's a LOT to have happen.  

On the starter, relay, and wiring, I'd recommend that you go with the later style PMGR (Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction) starter, as described here: Documentation/Electrical/PMGR Starter.  Ford went to that at least in the early 90's on your engine, and it cures a lot of ills by moving the heavy duty relay action to the starter itself.  That way your fender-mounted relay is seriously overkill and the brand you buy really won't matter.

I also run a PMGR starter on my drag car that the starter wiring started stock just like Fords.
IT is also wired just like the link has it, both battery cables on 1 large post, 10ga, wire down to PMGR starter to it's solenoid post and the large battery cable to the large post.

I liked the starter, non-off the shelf, so much I bought a HD unit to replace the unit in the drag can and will use the normal one in the street car when the time comes.
What is nice on the starters I use is they are so small you can replace the starter with out removing long tube headers https://www.robbmcperformance.com/
They also have HP fuel pumps and other things all made in the USA!
Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I'd used Tilton starters before on track vehicles, mostly for header clearance.

Great products too, but  wow.

[Gsmblue]

Well, it is snowing so this will have ti wait 2 weeks until i get back from my work trip.. grrrr...

[Gsmblue]

So i went through, checked all my cables, cleaned connections, added another block to frame ground strap.

Nothing.

Pulled the starter, had it tested, it was tired so i changed it out.

Nothing.

I looked at that new starter relay. Got a replacement.

Fired right up.

I am happy and very mad in equal measure.

[Gary Lewis]

Well, now you know everything is up to snuff.  

[Gsmblue]

It is a minor miracle I wrote that post with no expletives!

I think my wife was the sounded board for the blue language, she is also British and swears like a sailor..

Tomorrow i can do something meaningful, like rejet the carb and troubleshoot the air diverter.

[Gsmblue]

I managed to change out 6 of 8 spark plugs..

#2 and #3 barely have room to get a socket on them, it was 26 outside and I couldn’t feel my fingers!

The headers are Edlebrock and super twisty, never seen anything like it!

In other news my heating diverter is not diverting and i can hear a high pitch whistling at idle.. these must be vacuum related, right?

The diverter slider never felt good but it used to change air around. I will try and pull it on friday when i am home..

I got some boom pads for the rear speakers, what a difference. Going to do the front ones soon too.

[Gary Lewis]

Were your fingers "GSM" blue?  (Whatever color that is.)  

Yes, the whistle is probably vacuum.  If you have the factory A/C system the slider should be controlling the vacuum valve, and they usually get stiff in their old age - is that what you meant by not feeling good?  I freed one up with silicone spray, but I doubt that will fix a vacuum leak.

[Gsmblue]

Haha! Yes! That handle is an evolution over time and is nicely random!

I am going to remove the slider assembly for inspection and cleaning...

[Gsmblue]

Small update:

I got the rest of the spark plugs changed out. It was tricky, but using a ratchet wrench on the end of the spark plug socket got me there.

The high pitch noise was coming from the passenger side valve cover. Using the old piece of hose to the ear trick I tracked it down.  HonestlyI was never happy with how that sat, it appears that the air is coming out, so I am changing the gasket, adding in studs instead of bolts and putting in a new PCV valve.

A replacement air diverter valve is on its way and should be here for the weekend.

As mentioned elsewhere, a major audio upgrade is happening this weekend... I will post pics and report on how it goes...

[Gary Lewis]

High pitched noise from the valve cover?  And air coming out?  Sounds like the PCV valve isn't working.

Anyway, you have a big weekend planned.  

[Gsmblue]

Exactly. I am just done with work and off to buy a new PCV valve!

Looking forward to a fun weekend 😎

[Gsmblue]

Well, that was frustrating.

The old PCV valve (actually a breather as you can see in the video) was working fine, I replaced it, left it off and the noise continues. It is a high pitch whine that is now getting worse and is tracking with engine RPM.

I am doing a horrible job of trouble shooting this and probably need to start over in daylight tomorrow. I have tried a few things:

1. pulled off different vacuum hoses to see if that makes a difference - nope.
2. loosened the alternator belt to see if any change (the alternator is relatively new) - nope
3. loosens the bolts holding the carb on, engine revs changed, noise did not. righted the bolts up nice and snug - no change.
4. removed passenger side valve cover, cleaned up, new gasket new studs and nuts. Noise went away for 10 mins and came back worse. right before this change the engine was making the noise, made this change and went away... hence I think it could be related to this.
5. checked oil, is a little low.  I will top up tomorrow.
6. had both valve cover vents open, no change.

Things that have changed recently
1. new alternator
2. new starter
3. new starter relay
4. new gasket on the passenger side valve cover.

Some thoughts:
1. could the gasket I am using not be ideal? any risk here? It is a felpro blue foam one. Could I have installed it incorrectly?
2. does this noise sound like a bearing or vacuum?
3. could it be header or intake related?
4. I tried removing the passenger side valve cover tonight, but I have over tightened one of the nut and can't undo it, it is the top middle one, where I thought the sound was coming from... I will try and attack it again tomorrow.

I cut the hose I used as a stethoscope the other day and I am now without that tool. doh.... I will get one tomorrow when I get some soil to top up.

It still sounds like it is coming from the passenger side rear of the engine at the top.

Here are some vids:

https://youtu.be/3W03zJALsi4

https://youtu.be/smOwPlyDeDc

If anyone recognizes this sound please let me know!  Tomorrow I am going to do the following:

1. Buy a hose and try and track the source of the noise down.
2. remove and reseat the passenger side valve cover again...
3. walk the dog and try not to stress about it all!

As always, any thoughts/input would be appreciated.

P.S - I made progress with the audio stuff, so at least I can drown the noise out with that....