1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project

[FuzzFace2]

Atlas75 wrote

I do have a splitter up high on the firewall.  Nothing is hooked to it either.

What is this?  It is mounted to a plate that sits between the carb and the intake manifold.  There is no line hooked to it.

That would be the EGR and it can be left the way it is.
Some times the EGR will get stuck open a little and cause issues.
What some do is pull the valve off and make a block off plate using a tin can to fit between the valve & housing.

As for the splitter on the fire wall.
1 port will have a hose going to the intake for supply.
A port could go to the transmission.
Another port supplies vacuum to the HVAC controls when the truck has AC.
Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

You can take carb or brake clean and spray it around the base of the carb, between the intake manifold and head, and any place you see a vacuum line / hose.

With the motor running and up to temp when spraying if the idle speed changes there is a vacuum leak in that area.
Dave ----

[Atlas75]

Thanks for the info on the EGR.  I think I will leave it alone for now.

As for the splitter, this is what I have.


Nothing is hooked to it.  My trans comes directly off the intake manifold and my heater controls don't appear to use vacuum.  It must have been used for something else that is no longer hooked up.

[Atlas75]

Oh...and what is that tag screwed in just to the right of the vacuum splitter?

[Atlas75]

Wait...isn’t there supposed to be a wire attached to that metal tab on the choke?

[ArdWrknTrk]

That's a Buck Tag
It follows the cab (there's another on the bed) through the body making and paint process, and tells the line workers what kind of options get attached (eg a diesel would have a completely different wiring harness)

There should be a black & white wire from the alternator stator.... or the regulator, IDK on a truck your age but it should be in the EVTM

[Atlas75]

EVTM shows 3 wires coming from my alternator.  I only have 2.  I guess I need to find a new plug so I can run a wire to the choke.  The stator wire seems to be missing.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think you'd have to have the plug.  If I remember correctly the connection in the alternator is a 1/4" male, so if you had an insulated 1/4" female you could use it instead of the plug.

[Atlas75]

I had a bit of time this weekend to work on a few of the critical issues that needed to be addressed.  I removed the cowl and reattached the wiper linkage and retainer clip so I now have functional wipers.  After reinstalling the cowl I installed the hood to cowl gasket I ordered from LMC truck.  I messed around with the vacuum a bit more and I now have 14” of manifold vacuum.  Not sure where else it could be leaking from but I’ll keep looking.

I have a question about the connectors under the hood.  Are there pigtails available for the plug that brings the temp sensor signal and oil pressure signal to the dash?  My temp signal wire is toast and I would prefer to splice in a new connector on the engine side.

It is like this in many spots.


Photo of plug on engine side.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There are pigtails.
I think Gary has the Motorcraft connector catalog on site.

Don't just go buy that connector!
Most of them are insanely expensive through the dealers part counter.

But once you have the actual part number you can cross it to suppliers like Pico Wiring or find old inventory on eBay.

[Gary Lewis]

The Motorcraft pigtail catalog is at Documentation/Electrical/Connectors.  Hope that helps.

[Atlas75]

It may be a moot point as I don't see that connector listed.  Looks like I may need to look for a donor or just bypass the connector and wire direct.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Maybe one of us has a chunk of harness we can donate.

My harness collection is over at my buddy Theo's house where I was playing mix & match hoping to get two fully functional trucks out of his collection.
I can either ask him to bring that tote over, or if the weather shifts I will end up over there this week transplanting the (fresher) 5.0 into his flareside.

[FuzzFace2]

The NAPA I go to has a wall with different rubber M/FM connections from I think 1 up to 7 IIRC.
I would go with that over a direct wire setup.
Dave ----

[Atlas75]

If anyone has one that would be great!  Let me know.

Otherwise, I like Dave's idea to check out the NAPA for a new style 4 pin and rewire.

[Bruce moose4x4]

Take a look at these weather pack connectors.


https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduct-tite-3354/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/universal-wire-connectors-25380/13d878ed189c/dorman-conduct-tite-technician-terminal/85394/4176602?q=85394&pos=0

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-conduct-tite-3354/lighting---electrical-16777/connectors-sockets-16631/universal-wire-connectors-25380/13d878ed189c/dorman-conduct-tite-technician-terminal/85395/4176603?q=85395&pos=0

[Atlas75]

Those would certainly work.  Thanks Bruce!

[Atlas75]

Is there any information on the motor that would tell me what year it is from?  I am curious if the motor is from 1980 or not.  It is the 6.6L 400 if that makes a difference on where to look.

[ArdWrknTrk]

There's no compliance sticker on the drivers side valve cover?

[Gary Lewis]

Jim is right.  If you don't have that label it is almost impossible to tell the year of the engine.  The blocks were cast months, if not years, in advance and sat around "seasoning".

What you are looking for in the way of the sticker is explained on the page here: Documentation/Specifications/Calibration Codes.