1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project

[ArdWrknTrk]

Option #1 seems it would be easiest, but you lose the integrity of the tube and it is going to move a lot when you weld one edge of what has become a 3" wide strip.

We're it me my first choice would be to braze #3.
Filling it completely up and filing the brass back to flush when done.
Properly prepped braze can easily exceed the 70k tensile of most MIG wire and the heat isn't nearly as concentrated.

You could even tack weld it and then braze.

Brass will never rust, and since it is visually different it is easy to gauge your progress back to flat.
Plus, no body filler at all!
But hey, I'm old and this is how things used to get done.

[Rembrant]

I think I'll simply MIG number 3. I'll make some blocks that are same thickness as the tubing OD, and that way I can clamp it all in plate. I'll stitch it all along, and then fill it in afterwards. In the off chance that it leaves an unsightly mark, I'll put bedliner on it. Done.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Do you think you can brake that crease after welding?

If going to weld all the way, use hundreds of tiny tacks to keep distortion at a minimum.

Progress is good, Cory!  

[Rembrant]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Do you think you can brake that crease after welding?

If going to weld all the way, use hundreds of tiny tacks to keep distortion at a minimum.

Progress is good, Cory!  

I'm not too worried about it Jim...16 gauge is pretty heavy...nothing like regular body sheet metal which is what, 20 or 22 gauge? Worse case scenario I can weld in a couple gussets on the underside where they can't be seen. Even if it took me a few days to weld the whole length, I don't really care.

[Gary Lewis]

I'd try #3 using some scrap and see how it goes.  But my experience with my welding is that I'd sure have a lot of grinding to do.  And that's at a very visible spot.

Have you checked with Tabco?  Do they have them?  Would they make them?

[ArdWrknTrk]

In your section drawings you show the inside going straight down, but in my recollection the top of the bed sides angled in before going vertical.

Please help me out here.
I'm having a senior moment....

I know the body panels I use are 19Ga.

[Rembrant]

Gary Lewis wrote

I'd try #3 using some scrap and see how it goes.  But my experience with my welding is that I'd sure have a lot of grinding to do.  And that's at a very visible spot.

Have you checked with Tabco?  Do they have them?  Would they make them?

Gary,

That was my plan. Pick up a couple feet of tubing and get a couple pieces of 16ga bent up and run some tests at various speeds and temps.

Nobody makes these bed sides unfortunately. They are about the only bed sides that are not being made today. I'm sure it's because the Ford side panels, I believe starting in 1978 and running all the way through to 1987 have the fender tubs stamped into the sides...which is not easy to replicate. All of the other "step side" trucks just had flat side panels...which are easy to replicate by comparison.

[Rembrant]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

In your section drawings you show the inside going straight down, but in my recollection the top of the bed sides angled in before going vertical.

Please help me out here.
I'm having a senior moment....

That was 1977 and earlier, I believe. Starting in 1978 they look like my picture above, with the flat tops.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks!

I rarely see Flaresides on the road, and never as many as on this forum.

I know how Theo's Aeronose Flareside looks, but that seems a lot different from '80's trucks with its integral running boards and all the rest.

[Gary Lewis]

That makes sense, Cory.  Good luck on the trials.  Hopefully you'll find a way that works nicely and is easy to finish.  

[Bruce moose4x4]

Back in the old days, not sure how old. The firetrucks I worked on used what they called a split tube. Just the round tube with a split all the way down it. they would slip the panel inside the slip and stitch weld along the split, then they would weld the ends shut. Made for a strong panel. not sure if you can still buy the split tube. But you could make it. I would definitely weld it on panel first the bend the top over. Qiuick search found this. They call it open seam tubing from 1/4 to 1 1/2 inch diameter.

https://www.johnsonrollforming.com/display.php/display/C1/category/9

[Rembrant]

Interesting, Bruce. I've never heard of this tubing. I'll have to check it out.

[FuzzFace2]

If I was doing the bed sides with the tools I have it would be #3 also.
As for bending the sides before or after the welding?
1-I would ask the shop doing the bending if it will fit in the brake with the pipe on it.
2-with the bend in it, it may make the "lip" less likely to warp when being welded.

The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but ..........
I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works.
The tires did not ware good and they did not handle good.
After the first set of tires wore out I went with an 8" wheels and same tires and they wore much better and same with the handling.
Just what I found is all.
Dave ----

[Rembrant]

FuzzFace2 wrote

The wheels / tires look good even not being on the truck but ..........
I found 31's (not BFG's) on a 10" wheel to be to wide even if the charts say it works.
The tires did not wear good and they did not handle good.

Dave,

I was actually able to get the tires installed yesterday. Ever try to install a set of tire/wheels without lifting them?>..ha. It took a little screwing around with the jack, but it worked. Anyway, I know that 31's on 10" rims is probably not the preferred set-up, but I was wanting this arrangement, and for all intents and purposes, this truck (if I can ever finish it) will not get driven very much or very far. The tires would rot before I'd ever wear them out. It really IS just a project for something to do, and something to play around with when done.





Anyway, I ran into a bit of a snag yesterday. I'm trying to finish up some engine bay work before I install the core support. I need to do fuel pump, oil filter, steering box, wiring, etc...just a bunch of stuff that will be easier without the core support in place. I wasn't planning on changing the water pump right away, but when I pulled the short little stub of hose off it yesterday I found the hose barb was rusted out, so I guess I need to add a water pump to the list.

Problem is...how to remove that darn clutch fan on the 300 when it's well rusted in place?? I have a wrench that fits it, and according to my searches it is reverse thread (right to loosen), but how in the bloody heck do you hold the water pump from turning? I guess I'll have to make some kind of plate that bolts on to 2 or 4 of the pulley bolt holes on the water pump? And then...pray (with a hammer) that I can break that clutch fan loose? Any tips or tricks from a 300 inline 6 guy?

[ArdWrknTrk]

If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something?
Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now...

Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory!  

[Gary Lewis]

The tires and wheels look very good!  And I'm glad you figured out how to get them on w/o lifting.  

As for the fan and water pump, I'm with Jim - do whatever is needed to get it off.  Can you cut a semicircle out of a piece of angle, drop it down over the flange, and tack weld it to the flange?

[kramttocs]

Really like those tires!
Also didn't realize you had the aluminum frame slider. Very nice. I like that frame the best especially on a dark truck like yours.

[Rembrant]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something?
Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now...

Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory!  

I can't jam the impeller as the pump is still on the engine. I don't think you can reach the bolts with the pulley in the way. There's not much room between the pulley on the front of the pump, and the fan on the back of the clutch. Just a big nut (36mm wrench fits well, so 1 1/2" or so). I guess I'll try to make a U-shaped plate that fits a couple of the bolt holes in the water pump pulley. I've read where guy use an air chisel on the edges of the big hex nut. Might try that. I guess worse case scenario I'll cut it off with a recip, but I was hoping to salvage the clutch as it feels OK.

kramttocs wrote

Really like those tires!
Also didn't realize you had the aluminum frame slider. Very nice. I like that frame the best especially on a dark truck like yours.

Oh...I was actually planning to remove that slider...lol. I like the classic look of it, but it's pretty grungy. I saved the newer one out of the 1995 donor truck that I swapped the chassis out of and was planning to use it. It needs a deep cleaning as well, but it is 15 years newer. I'll have a better loook at the old aluminum one after I finish the thousand other things higher on the priority list haha.

[Rembrant]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

If the water pump is toast what's stopping you from jamming the impeller with a pry bar or something?
Like Gary's power steering, it's just a core now...

Truck looks nice up on those wheels, Cory!  

Oh...wait...did you mean stick a pry bar up through the suction of the pump? I never thought of that...

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ah, I was just trying to reply that.

But I keep getting a grey dog eared sad face page, and my post is lost.

I don't know about the 300's because the inlet is on the other side, but I can see the impeller with the lower radiator hose off.