19 gallons side tank Sending Unit

[85lebaront2]

The rear tank will only come out from below unless you want to drill out the rivets in the cross member at the front of it. You can reach the sender/pump assembly from the top, but to replace it you still have to remove the bottom straps.

When dealing with the front tank, empty is best, even with my Walker transmission jack it can be a bear if the fuel shifts.

[Gary Lewis]

85lebaront2 wrote

When dealing with the front tank, empty is best, even with my Walker transmission jack it can be a bear if the fuel shifts.

In my experience it isn't "if" but "when" the fuel shifts.  Man, I'm not about to do THAT again.  I tried to get one out with the truck on the ground and it was a bear, for sure.

Now I can loosen the tank while on the lift, lower the truck so the tank sits on a table, and then raise the truck off of it.  That's the only way I'll play with a tank with fuel in it.

[C.Jett]

Jeff, I got mine from LMC, one tank reads 3/4 when full, the other one reads 5/8. Don’t know what to do with them. It’s an 85 and both tanks are 19 gal. CJ

[derek]

ArdWrknTrk wrote

Sometimes the straps and bolts are really rusty, and the bolts are really long.

The ones in the rear have a 15 mm head.

You can take them down, but if the tank is full it's a bear, even with two people and a floor jack!

ok sweet, ours is empty since it's got a hole in it, so that shouldn't be problem initially at least.  Now, once we realize we've messed something up and have it installed and full already, that'll be a different story.

[mat in tn]

I've done numerous tanks over the years and empty is not always an option. I have not seen the need to pull the bed. however, if the bed is off don't skip that opportunity to do a thorough test and inspection. replacing the tanks and senders is a major part of resurrecting an old, abandoned truck or barn find as they are usually holding ugly secrets. whatever is in there is likely to find its way to the carb.
one point to remember. the whole vehicle has shared the same life. if the tank/s are rusty, many of the other fasteners may be similar. bed bolts for example. once you have a rusted seized bed bolt spin in the bed retention slot you may think twice about removing the bed as a short cut.
I use a small pump with a length of fuel hose hooked to the tank outlet and pump the tank down into gas cans as needed. a transmission jack is very valuable but even a few ratchet straps can make it much easier

[85pig]

I'm pulling the bed not to replace the tank, but for many other reasons (including replacing the rotted out bed itself).  I'm planning on new tanks and senders, and I'm going to replace all of the fuel lines with hard lines to the cab.  All will be much easier while the bed is off.  

[mat in tn]

that sounds like good project management

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hard lines are gonna be a 🐩if you ever need to drop a tank in the future.

I could never get either of my tanks down if they weren't flexible enough to unclip a couple of mounts and have the tank drop enough for me to release them from the bung.

But, maybe you intend to pull the bed if you ever get a bad pump or sender???
IDK...

[85pig]

Now that's something I didn't consider - good information.  I still want to hard line it to the front, maybe I can figure something out.  Just not a fan of all of the plastic, and Ford put WAY too much plastic in these things.  

Loosening and propping the bed up may still be an option, I'll know more when I get into it.

[Gary Lewis]

If you are going to loosen the bolts to prop the bed up, do you plan to use different bolts than stock?  Or tack weld the bolts to the bed?

The reason I ask is that the original bolts frequently twist in the bed, so I tacked them to the bed to make it easier to get off next time.

[mat in tn]

many times, I have needed to weld the bolt heads to keep them from spinning. a good spray of free-all helps too.

[85pig]

Later model "Torx head" bed bolts.  Got a tip from a bump and dent side guy that said he pulls all of them out of later model Fords in the salvage yards when he goes.  Said they are great replacement for the carriage-style in these older ones.  

[ArdWrknTrk]

Be sure to get the clip nuts, then....

[Gary Lewis]

Yep, those are the way to go.  John/Machspeed did that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

If you have a carb (low pressure system) maybe consider Tygon and Ottiker clamps with the Dorman repair fittings???

Tygon seems to hold up to gasohol better than the old nylon lines.  💡